This Week At Angama #357

Lone buffalo bulls, known as 'dagga boys', are often avoided because of their short tempers and tendency to charge. However, we came across a particular family of elephants that showed no hesitation in standing their ground against one such loner. Known for their fierce protectiveness, elephants swiftly react if they sense a threat to their young. It seems the tables would have turned if the buffalo had not escaped.

Ganesh is a powerful symbol of the enduring strength of the African elephant. At 62, he is one of the oldest bulls that roam Amboseli. He often spends his days meandering through the Sanctuary, taking restful naps beneath the shade of Acacia tortilis trees. This week, we spotted him searching for food with a chanting dark goshawk perched on his back. These skilled hunters favour elevated perches, such as trees, termite mounds, and even large mammals like Ganesh, to spot their prey — primarily small reptiles, other birds, and insects.

This medium-sized raptor is known for its striking slate-grey plumage, distinctive orange-red legs, and bill. The 'chanting' part of their name comes from their rhythmic, musical call, a repeated 'kleeu-kleeu-kleeu,' when perched or in flight. Ganesh’s calm demeanour likely made him the perfect platform for this opportunistic bird, a brief harmonious connection between two species that have shared the African savannah for centuries. 

On the way back to the lodge from Amboseli National Park, Guide Alice and some guests had the incredible fortune of spotting the cheetah mother with her five lively cubs. Managing the demands of feeding such a large brood is no small feat, but this mother navigates it with remarkable skill. The Park’s sweeping open plains are her ally, providing clear views to detect any approaching danger. As her cubs approach their first year, she has started teaching them the essential hunting skills, preparing them for the independence that lies ahead.

Angama Guide Salash seems to possess a lion whisperer’s gift. One early morning with guests, he spotted Male 263 and his counterpart, Osunash, patrolling around the lodge. Later, on an evening walk to spot birds, I heard their calls echoing near Guest Suite 10. Curious, I climbed the hill near the turning circle for a better vantage point. As the sun was setting, I glimpsed two heads rising briefly from behind a small bush before they settled back to sleep. We are hopeful that last month’s mating was successful and that these lions can finally establish the long-awaited Kimana Pride. 

Recently, thick, rolling fog has blanketed the landscape each morning, adding an eerie sense of mystery. You never know what might suddenly appear — we saw Craig and a few other bulls looking almost mystical as they stood together in the dense fog.

During an early walk along the lodge pathways, the shy mountain briefly graced us with her presence. Kili's snow-covered peak was breathtaking — always a cherishing moment before Kilimanjaro retreats behind the clouds.

The bat-eared fox family has made another appearance with a delightful surprise: playful puppies frolicking in the background. With a gestation period of just over two months, the foxes likely mated at the start of the rainy season. This timing guarantees an abundant supply of insects — their primary food source — for the entire family.

The cooler temperatures and moisture-rich environment encourage these energetic youngsters to play and explore, helping them hone essential survival skills. From pouncing on insects to investigating their surroundings, each activity builds the agility and alertness they’ll rely on as adults.

The scorpion flower is a stunning and ever-evolving display of life. It’s a magnet for butterflies, bees, and other insects. Exhibiting a fascinating growth pattern — its tips slowly uncoil in a graceful, spiral-like motion. As it unfurls, fresh flowers bloom, while older blossoms fade to brown and give way to small, dry fruits that cradle seeds, ready for dispersal. The clusters of delicate white flowers act as beacons for pollinators.

Butterflies flutter to sip nectar while bees busily collect pollen, ensuring the plant's reproduction. The number of insects drawn to the flowers highlights the plant's essential role in supporting local ecosystems. Beneath the blooms, the dense foliage forms a rich undergrowth, offering an ideal refuge for small insects, spiders, and other creatures that rely on this shelter for protection and sustenance. –Japheth Supeyo

Angama Guide Moses is highly knowledgeable and deeply passionate about the wilderness, which makes sightings with him more interesting. He suggested we embark on an early morning drive one morning, as dawn promises extraordinary sightings. With enthusiasm, we set out into the golden hues.

Moses shared fascinating insights about the behaviour of the wildlife that surrounded us, from the subtle movements of birds to the intricate social dynamics of big game. Guides like Moses transform a safari, leaving you full of facts and more precise understanding. Thanks to his keen eye and instincts, we discovered a lion feasting on a buffalo carcass.

As a wildlife photographer, I have seen some incredible sights, but recently, I witnessed something I have never seen before. It began with a lion successfully hunting a young buffalo. After the predator had its fill, he sought shade from the blazing sun, with the lifeless buffalo remaining on the open plain. But the story didn't end there.

A short while later, a herd of buffalo appeared, seemingly drawn by the scent of the fallen member. They gathered around the carcass, sniffing it intently, nudging it gently as though trying to rouse the young buffalo. Their behaviour mirrored a sense of mourning, a profound grief I had only ever associated with elephants. The usually stoic buffaloes displayed an emotional depth that felt both moving and tragic, their quiet attempts at revival painfully futile.

The savannah always dazzles during golden hour, but the sunset surpassed all expectations this particular day. As the sun dipped, casting a glow that illuminated the entire landscape, we heard a distant, commanding roar. Eager to follow the sound, our hearts raced as we approached the lion. There, resting regally by the roadside, was a magnificent nomad male lion, his mane glowing like embers in the sun's final rays.

Patience is the soul of wildlife photography, and we were soon rewarded for our perseverance. As the clock ticked closer to 19h00 and we debated returning to the lodge to beat the curfew, the lion gave us a show that none of us would ever forget. He bellowed a deep roar that echoed across the Mara. The guests, who had dreamed of this exact moment while planning their trip to Angama Mara, were overcome with emotion. We returned to the lodge with our hearts full, knowing we had experienced something special. –Rio Marvin