This Week at Angama #356

As the rains revitalise the Mara, safari drives remain spectacular. The landscape transforms into lush greenery, alive with birdsong and dotted with water puddles. It’s not uncommon to encounter a massive bull elephant in musth, asserting dominance on the road — a behaviour fuelled by the rainy season’s abundant resources, which heighten energy and breeding activity. With his head high, trunk swinging, and an air of authority, he embodies confidence, travelling vast distances in search of a mate. On this day, the bull’s commanding presence held up safari vehicles until, with a deliberate move, he allowed the convoy to pass.  

Sometimes, human intervention is necessary to assist wildlife in dire situations caused by injury or disease. Recently, one of the three Kogatende males, also known as the Siligi boys, a coalition of cheetahs, has been suffering from mange. It is a severe and highly contagious skin disease caused by parasitic mites that burrow into the skin, causing patchy hair loss and red, inflamed skin. Concern arose that the condition might have already spread to the two other brothers. Thus, veterinary intervention was promptly initiated to treat the cheetahs and prevent further complications. Fortunately, the three responded well to the treatment and are showing significant improvement, with visible signs of recovery in their appearance and overall health.

Three weeks ago, we captured beautiful moments between a leopard mother and her sub-adult female cub, estimated to be around 13-15 months old. At this age, cubs gradually start to separate from their mothers, typically gaining full independence between 18-24 months. This week, we found the mother alone in the Maji Machafu area, signalling the cubs' steps towards independence. Although the sub-adult is still in the vicinity, they are starting to keep their distance, a natural progression as she learns to navigate and survive independently. Occasionally, the cub will reunite with her mother, especially when one secures a kill. But, over time, the young leopard will venture farther and farther away and establish her own territory. 

Not all zebras partake in the famed Great Migration between the Serengeti and Maasai Mara. Some are permanent residents within the Mara ecosystem, living here year-round. Before the migrating herds arrive from Serengeti in Tanzania, groups of resident zebras from Mara North Conservancy and Olare Orok Conservancy cross the Mara River into the Mara Triangle. These zebras often linger in the Triangle after the migrating herds move back to Tanzania, taking advantage of the grazing opportunities. After the Migration moved on this year, we noticed an increase in new foals among the resident zebra population, marking a season of renewal.

Now, the zebras are preparing to move back north as they gather in large numbers near the Mara River. However, the river presents a significant challenge this year — the heavy rainfall has increased the water level, making the current stronger and a more perilous endeavour even for the strongest zebras. Despite the risks, they are driven by an innate urge to cross in search of fresh grass.

Typically elusive due to their dense and less accessible territory in the Maasai Mara Triangle, The Serena Pride recently made a rare and delightful appearance. Led by Mrefu and his brothers, this Pride is not often seen, making each encounter special. This time, the sighting came with exciting news — new cubs were spotted with them, echoing similar observations in the nearby Maji Machafu Pride. The presence of cubs is an encouraging sign of a healthy lion population in the Mara Triangle, suggesting that the many conditions are optimal for young lions to survive. –Robert Sayialel

With the rainy season in full swing, a lush green hue washes over the Sanctuary, transforming it into a vibrant haven teaming with life. Our morning safari drive began with an unexpected yet captivating sight of a pair of dung beetles diligently at work on the road, their tiny bodies bustling with purpose.

We watched as the male beetle skillfully rolled his fresh ball of elephant dung; his efforts focused on creating the perfect nursery for their future offspring. Perched atop the ball, the female beetle rode along, awaiting the ideal moment. Once the male finds a suitable spot, he will break open the dung ball, allowing the female to lay her eggs securely within — a fascinating example of teamwork and instinct in the wild.

As Kimana Sanctuary transforms, it becomes a refuge for migratory birds. A variety of species are breathing into the landscape, making this the ideal time for walking safaris, especially if you are a bird lover. Among the seasonal arrivals is the stunning blue-cheeked bee-eater, with a vivid plumage that flickers with colour between the greenery. Whistling ducks have also claimed their spots, filling every water puddle and corner of the Sanctuary.

While on a walk, we heard a bird call that sounded like a cartoon character's laugh, making it clear why it earned its nickname as the 'laughing bird'. The violet wood hoopoe is an entertaining bird, with its striking black-and-white patterned wings, a vivid red beak, and a shimmering green neck. Everywhere we turned, birds filled the air. You could feel the energy dancing past, like being within a symphony of sound and colour.

After lunch one afternoon, the Big Life rangers alerted us to an exciting sighting in the Sanctuary. We grabbed our cameras and followed their directions, and soon, we were greeted by the unmistakable clamour of guineafowls, alerting us that there was something thrilling nearby.

We scanned the area and noticed fresh paw prints in the mud — which led us to the remarkable sight of a mother cheetah with her three cubs resting under the shade, clearly looking for prey. Their lean frames hinted at the struggles of recent hunts, yet to make a successful kill. Despite their predicament, they were calm and unbothered by the vehicle's presence, allowing us to observe quietly.

The scene turned dramatic when the mother cheetah began to stalk a group of Grant's gazelles, her movements calculated and precise. However, the ever-watchful guineafowls betrayed her approach, their raucous cries sending the gazelles into high alert, ending the hunt before it could begin.

Undeterred, the cheetahs wandered towards a group of Super Tuskers, including the iconic Craig who has ventured back into the Sanctuary. Unfazed by their presence, the enormous bull elephants continued feeding peacefully as the cats strolled by. However, the Grant's gazelles remained vigilant, watching with sharp eyes, leaving little opportunity for another attempt.

Another rare and delightful sight greeted us — a family of bat-eared foxes out in the open. These endearing, typically nocturnal creatures usually only emerge under the cover of darkness to hunt small prey like rabbits and mice. But on this cool, overcast day, they seemed perfectly content to linger outside their burrow a little longer. We watched in fascination as they played and interacted, offering a rare glimpse into their secretive world. As the day brightened, they quietly retreated to their den, leaving us with a memory to cherish.

Craig and Pascal, along with their many companions, have spent most of the week near the Tortilis woodland — a short ten-minute drive from the lodge. Together with the guests, we enjoyed quality time observing the Super Tuskers, who, unhurried, revelled in the abundance of food. To top it off, Elton has also also been spotted nearby, creating a spectacular scene of Super Tuskers gathering in one place. It’s truly heartwarming to see these magnificent giants thriving together in the Sanctuary. –Japheth Supeyo