This Week at Angama #438

The Amboseli National Park marshes never cease to surprise us. As we carefully searched the swamp, Guide Sabore spotted a spotted hyena wading confidently through the shallow water. At first, we wondered what had drawn it so deep into the marsh. Then, through our binoculars, we saw the prize: a catfish head firmly clenched in its powerful jaws.

The hyena had likely scavenged the remains left behind by another predator or found the fish after it had become stranded in the shallow water. Whatever the source, it was determined to enjoy its meal in peace. But peace in the wild rarely lasts.

Within seconds, another hyena emerged from the reeds, having noticed the easy meal. Splashing through the water at full speed, it rushed towards the first hyena, hoping to steal a share of the catfish. The calm marsh instantly erupted into chaos as water sprayed and the two hyenas lunged at each other.

The owner of the prize refused to surrender. Growling and twisting through the water, it kept a tight grip on the catfish’s head while its rival repeatedly tried to snatch it away. The marsh echoed with snapping jaws, and the unmistakable determination of two scavengers unwilling to give up.

Eventually, the dominant hyena managed to break free, still carrying its hard-earned meal. Realising the contest was over, the second hyena abandoned the chase, and together they disappeared into the tall reeds, leaving only ripples across the water and an unforgettable memory for everyone watching.

On another morning, the day began much more peacefully. The silence of dawn was broken by the gentle footsteps of elephants as they began their daily journey.

For several days, Mount Kilimanjaro had remained hidden behind thick clouds, keeping its towering peak a mystery. But one morning, as the sun climbed higher, the clouds slowly drifted away, revealing Africa’s highest mountain in all its glory.

We spotted one of the bush’s most elusive residents: the Cape hare, perfectly camouflaged against the dry grass. These hares usually spend the day resting in a shallow depression known as a form. They are nocturnal herbivores, becoming active after sunset to feed on grasses, herbs, and tender shoots.

During daylight hours, it relies on its remarkable camouflage and stillness as its first line of defence. One of its most distinctive features is its long ears, which help regulate body temperature and provide exceptional hearing, allowing the hare to detect the slightest movement or sound from predators approaching from a distance.

When danger comes too close, the Cape hare has one final trick. Instead of running in a straight line, it bursts into a series of unpredictable zigzags, reaching speeds of up to 70 km/h. This erratic escape pattern makes it incredibly difficult for predators such as jackals, servals, and birds of prey to anticipate its next move.

Later in the week, our afternoon game drive led us to one of Amboseli’s giants, T-Jay, the magnificent Super Tusker. As temperatures continued to rise, he sought refuge beneath the shade of a lone tree.

Over the past few months, T-Jay has developed a habit that many Guides and regular guests cannot help but notice. Like the legendary Craig, one of Amboseli’s most iconic Super Tuskers, T-Jay has become known for spending long periods resting beneath the same trees during the hottest hours of the day, a behaviour that instantly brings back memories of Craig, whose calm presence and enormous ivory made him an icon of the Amboseli ecosystem.

Although no elephant can truly replace Craig, T-Jay is carving out his own legacy. With his impressive tusks sweeping close to the ground and his gentle, composed nature, he has become one of the most treasured residents and a favourite among photographers and wildlife enthusiasts alike.

Among the many treasures of the Amboseli ecosystem, the grey crowned crane stands out as one of its most elegant and iconic birds. This week, we were delighted to see healthy numbers of these beautiful cranes across the marshes and swamps, with several pairs accompanied by their growing chicks, a reassuring sign that the wetlands continue to provide safe breeding grounds.

The permanent marshes of Amboseli are the lifeblood of the grey crowned crane. Fed by underground springs flowing from Mount Kilimanjaro, these wetlands offer abundant food, nesting sites, and protection from predators. They feed on seeds, insects, frogs, small reptiles, and other invertebrates, making the marshes an ideal year-round habitat.

Seeing adults carefully guide their young through the grass is a reminder that conservation efforts in Amboseli are making a difference. Healthy wetlands support not only elephants, hippos, and buffalo, but also hundreds of bird species that depend on these fragile ecosystems.

However, despite encouraging numbers in Amboseli, grey crowned cranes are declining across much of Africa. Their greatest threats include the destruction and drainage of wetlands for agriculture and human settlement, which removes critical nesting habitat. Illegal capture for the pet trade, disturbance during the breeding season, pesticide use that reduces their food supply, and collisions with power lines also contribute to their decline. Climate change, with its increasingly unpredictable rainfall and prolonged droughts, further threatens the wetlands on which these birds depend. Amboseli remains one of the species’ strongholds, proving that when wetlands are protected, wildlife flourishes.

Later in the week, we were fortunate to spend time with one of Amboseli’s most remarkable elephant families, the TC family, led by the experienced matriarch Tabitha.

Tabitha carries a remarkable lineage. She is the daughter of the legendary Slit Ear and the granddaughter of Tara, two matriarchs whose bloodline has shaped generations of elephants in Amboseli. Their legacy lives on through Tabitha, whose leadership continues to guide her family across the landscape.

Throughout the week, the TC family chose Kimana Sanctuary as their refuge. With its protected habitat, abundant vegetation, and reliable water sources, the Sanctuary provides a peaceful environment where elephant families can feed, rest, and raise their calves with minimal disturbance.

Watching the herd move together was a lesson in elephant society. The older females remained alert while the younger members explored their surroundings, and playful calves stayed close to their mothers, protected by the tight-knit family circle. Every step reflected the strong social bonds that have allowed elephants to thrive for generations.

Later in the Sanctuary, one of Amboseli’s most impressive bulls made his presence impossible to ignore. Emoroo, a towering elephant from the EA family, has been roaming the Sanctuary, reminding both elephants and visitors why he is one of the ecosystem’s dominant males.

Born in 1988, Emoroo is now 37 years old, an age at which bull elephants reach their physical prime. With his massive body, powerful frame, and commanding presence, he is an unmistakable figure on the plains.

Earlier, we witnessed the intensity of elephant society as Emoroo confronted Per, another well-known bull. Emoroo was in musth, a natural period in a bull elephant’s life characterised by heightened testosterone levels, increased aggression, and an overwhelming drive to breed. During musth, dominant bulls actively seek out females in oestrus and challenge rival males for breeding rights. As Emoroo approached, Per quickly realised he was facing a bull at the peak of his strength.

Rather than engaging in a prolonged and potentially dangerous fight, Per gave way, allowing Emoroo to take control of the area and remain close to the females. Among elephants, these encounters are often settled through displays of size, confidence, and experience, with serious battles occurring only when neither bull is willing to retreat.

Secretions from his temporal glands streamed down his face, while urine continuously dribbled from beneath his tail — both unmistakable signs of musth.

These dramatic encounters are an essential part of elephant life. They ensure that the strongest and healthiest bulls have the opportunity to pass on their genes, contributing to the long-term health of Amboseli’s elephant population.

As we came to the end of the week, we found Memusi resting peacefully on her own. There was no sign of her cubs or the other members of the pride. She appeared calm and unbothered, taking advantage of the cool morning after what was likely another demanding night of hunting and patrolling. Solitary moments like these are uncommon for a pride lioness and offer a glimpse into the balance between motherhood and survival.

By evening, the Sanctuary had transformed. The older cubs had emerged from the thick shrubs, their confidence growing with every passing day. Curiosity drove them into the open as they cautiously explored their surroundings, testing their instincts and trying their luck in the wild. Every step, every stalk, and every playful chase formed part of the long journey from dependent cubs to skilled hunters.

Not far away, Noltulali and the Male 263 rested nearby, keeping a watchful eye over the pride’s territory. Their relaxed posture reflected the calm that had settled over the evening landscape, yet their presence was enough to remind every animal nearby who ruled these plains. —Arnold Omondi

While staying at Angama Mara, guests might encounter our local celebrities. They are known as the Three Brothers, and everyone has a warm story about them. At first glance, you might think all zebras look alike, but like our fingerprints, no two are the same.

Zebras are highly social animals, so when you are walking around the Lodge and spot one brother, the other two are usually not far behind. They move as a family, using their keen eyesight and hearing to avoid danger, especially after one of them narrowly escaped a lion last year and was left without a tail.

It is always a pleasure to watch them gently grooming one another’s necks. They communicate through the position of their ears, facial expressions, and, of course, the interesting sounds they make.

While driving along the red road in the Mara, the coast seemed clear until a lone Maasai giraffe stepped into view and stopped directly in the middle of the road.

Found only in Kenya and northern Tanzania, the Maasai giraffe is the largest subspecies of giraffe. Despite its enormous size and a neck stretching more than two metres, it shares one surprising trait with humans: it has just seven neck vertebrae.

As the first light of dawn stretched across the Mara, a small group of Thomson’s gazelles emerged. Before settling down to breakfast, there was a burst of youthful energy. With playful enthusiasm, they bounded through the grass, gently locking horns and rubbing their heads together in friendly sparring matches.

It was less about competition and more about practice — a natural ritual through which young antelopes develop the strength, coordination, and confidence they will need in the years ahead.

Romance seemed to be unfolding across the Mara this week. Near the Military area, one of the Border males was found with a lioness. Before following her across the plains, the impressive male paused to groom himself, methodically licking his paws before carefully cleaning his face.

As guests quietly watched, one could not help but ask with a smile, ‘Are they really going to do it right in front of us?’ The question drew quiet laughter all around, but the answer was simple: in the wild, lions have little regard for an audience.

Not long afterwards, another radio call crackled. This time, two more mating pairs had been spotted in the Baghdad area. It seemed that wherever we turned, another ‘wedding’ was underway.

While these encounters might seem coincidental, this time of year often brings an increase in mating activity. The arrival of the Migration brings an abundance of prey to the Mara, providing the food resources needed to support lion prides and, eventually, new cubs. With plentiful game on the plains, conditions are ideal for raising the next generation.

Some bonds are forged over many years, with both sides benefiting from the relationship. This is known as a symbiotic relationship.

One such partnership exists between mighty elephants and their little white companions, the cattle egrets. The elephants provide the egrets with security, food, and even a free ride when they do not feel like flying. In the wild, finding ways to survive without using too much energy is an important skill. In return, the elephants receive a complimentary spa and grooming service from their little white friends. The egrets feed on ticks found around the elephants’ ears, trunks, and other parts of their bodies.

Additionally, these birds feast on small insects, such as grasshoppers, disturbed by herds of elephants as they graze and move through the savannah. One animal’s movement becomes another’s opportunity — just as nature intended.

The Mara River always has a story to tell. As Guide Saitoti edged the safari vehicle closer to the river, we spotted a bloat of hippos, some with only their backs visible above the water.

Nearby, two subadult hippos were sparring, practising the behaviour they had observed in older and more experienced members of the group.

The ‘fight’ did not end there, but continued from the deep water onto the riverbank. It was all part of learning how to navigate life in the wild.

Watching these young hippos practise the behaviours of their elders was a heartwarming reminder of how survival skills are passed down through generations. One day, these very lessons may prove essential to their survival. ——Amani Robert, Victor Mumo, Salim Barasa