This Week at Angama #412

Late one afternoon, Guide Salash spotted something rare in the tall grass, the unmistakable flick of a leopard’s tail. He managed to capture a quick video on his phone and sent it through to the Angama Amboseli team.

Hope is high that she stays in Kimana Sanctuary. But as Jeremy from Big Life Foundation reminded us, leopards have come and gone over the years, slipping in and out like ghosts. No one knows where they disappear to; they may be just very good at hiding. However, it's unlikely with all the eyes out there each day. Perhaps they roam beyond the Sanctuary’s borders, into places only leopards know.

Determined to capture more images of her the next day, I drove with Guide Sabore up at the forest’s edge on the Northern part of Kimana, where we found fresh tracks and immediately paused.

The prints sparked a debate. At first glance, they could have belonged to a hyena, but the absence of claw marks told a different story. Leopards have retractable claws, and suddenly the excitement grew. We followed the tracks carefully and soon found a long drag mark, clear evidence of a kill.

Her footprints flanked the trail as she pulled the carcass beneath her body. The trail led us into a dense patch of grass, where we circled several times, scanning every inch. Then, just as we stopped and settled, she revealed herself. Her head lifted from the grass, she looked at us for a few seconds, shifted slightly, and sat watching. Calm, alert, and entirely in control. 

After a brief moment, she slipped away again, likely choosing to move off with such a fresh kill nearby. We later found the carcass wedged deep into an acacia bush, perfectly hidden, a reminder of just how skilled leopards are at disappearing in plain sight. This sighting is an exciting milestone; whether she stays or moves on, we can only hope she chooses to make Kimana home a little longer. 

Elephant bulls are fascinating to watch, and we are exceptionally fortunate to be positioned within a wildlife corridor that welcomes so many of them. As part of the larger Amboseli ecosystem, this area experiences regular movement between Amboseli, Tsavo, and the Chyulu Hills, with elephants migrating in response to rainfall, water availability, and optimal grazing conditions.

This week, with Guide Elvis, we were treated to a large group of elephant bulls walking together in a single file. This kind of orderly procession is often associated with family groups led by matriarchs, but seeing a line of bulls moving together like this felt special. There was a quiet sense of purpose in the way they moved, unhurried and completely in sync. 

The sighting highlighted the remarkable size difference between bulls and females. On another occasion, we came across a lone male attempting to find a receptive female within a family group. Standing among the cows and calves, he towered above them all, his sheer scale impossible to miss.

Last week, Motonyi introduced us to her three cubs. It was a moment we had been waiting for with great anticipation. This week, however, she reminded us that a cheetah mother sets her own timetable. For a few days, she seemed to have vanished entirely. With no sightings and no tracks, we were left with the understanding that she was doing exactly what she needed to do. 

Her absence was not a cause for concern, but rather a sign that she was being a vigilant, attentive mother, with young cubs, safety comes first. Staying alert and moving when necessary, choosing cover carefully, and keeping her family hidden from harm.

Then, last evening, she reappeared with her cubs.

The three are growing quickly, more confident on their feet, more playful, and clearly beginning to test their independence. The bond between them and their mother is unmistakable.

It was remarkable to watch her remain calm and attentive, allowing their small bursts of mischief while keeping a watchful eye on her surroundings.

She looks strong and healthy, and the cubs seem to be thriving, which is reassuring. For now, we are grateful to witness this stage of their journey and hopeful that she continues to raise them successfully in the Sanctuary she knows so well. 

Another beautiful yet easily overlooked sighting this week came in the form of the leopard tortoise, one of the animals that make up the ‘Small Five,’ named after members of the Big Five.

Leopard tortoises are often missed entirely, and it’s easy to see why. Their beautifully patterned shells closely resemble the dark volcanic rocks scattered across Kimana Sanctuary, remnants of Mount Kilimanjaro’s ancient eruptions. When they are still, they seem to disappear into the landscape, revealed only when they slowly begin to move. 

Despite their unassuming presence, leopard tortoises are among the largest tortoise species in Africa. They can live for many decades and are well adapted to dry environments, feeding mainly on grasses, succulents, and fallen flowers. Their domed shells are not just striking to look at but also offer protection from predators and help them regulate their body temperature in the heat of the day. 

The Kimana Pride continues to grow in confidence as the cubs mature and learn the rhythms of life from their mothers and their fathers.

This week, we set out in search of the entire Pride and were particularly interested in Memusi, the first female to give birth. Her cub is now almost a year old, and for some time, we have noticed that Memusi has been spending more time away from the rest of the family. She is heavily pregnant again, and we suspect she may be keeping her distance as she looks for a safe, secluded place to give birth. 

One early morning, while out with Guide Sabore and Guest Sean with his family, we managed to find her. Rather than remaining apart, Memusi slowly led us back toward the Pride. We found Noltulali with her two younger cubs, resting together. Interestingly, Memusi’s older cub was not with the group. We believe she may have been resting elsewhere with Male 263, which raised a few questions. 

Typically, females and cubs remain closely bonded, so seeing the older cub away from her mother and sisters was unexpected. It will be interesting to observe how this dynamic unfolds, especially as Memusi approaches the birth of her next litter and the Pride adjusts once again. 

For now, the Kimana Pride appears strong, settled, and thriving. As always, we will continue to watch closely, waiting to see how the next chapter of their story unfolds. 

The relationship between buffalo and oxpeckers is a fascinating one to watch. The birds hop across the broad backs and flanks of the buffalo, pecking at ticks and other small parasites that constantly irritate. The buffalo, in turn, seem perfectly content to let them get on with it, standing patiently as the birds do their work. 

It's remarkable to see how far their trust extends. We watched oxpeckers move right up to the ears, climb onto faces, and even venture into nostrils without provoking the slightest reaction.

In another moment, an oxpecker disappeared headfirst into a buffalo’s nostril, a sight that was both amusing and extraordinary. 

This interaction is known as a symbiotic relationship, specifically mutualism, in which both species benefit. The oxpecker gains a reliable food source, while the buffalo is relieved of parasites. It is a simple exchange, but one built on trust and tolerance between two very different animals. — Jay Supeyo

After successfully bringing down a zebra and a topi, we later encountered the Border Pride right along the Tanzania boundary, clearly exhausted and desperate for water and shade. This impressive Pride, numbering sixteen individuals, was accompanied by two of the dominant Lamai males who currently command and protect them. 

Their recent feast was evident in their rounded, heavy bellies, which swayed as they moved slowly and deliberately toward a nearby small, muddy pool. One by one, they formed a loose line at the water’s edge, lowering their heads to drink deeply, taking their time as they quenched their thirst under the relentless heat of the day. 

Once satisfied, the Pride settled close to the pool, crowding together in the damp ground where the cool mud offered relief. Bodies overlapped wherever space allowed, all trying to conserve energy. 

But with no shade, comfort was short-lived. Gradually, as the heat intensified, individuals began to rise and drift away, one after another, seeking the mercy of nearby trees. Eventually, the Pride spread out beneath scattered patches of shade, disappearing into the grass and shadows. 

A true master of the trees, the leopard relies on agility and strength to evade formidable and imposing scavengers such as hyenas.

With remarkable speed and precision, this particular leopard hoisted its freshly made kill high into the branches, securing it beyond the reach of any potential thieves. Below, a lone hyena paced restlessly at the base of the tree, casting hopeful glances upward and lingering in the faint chance that a scrap might fall.

Time, however, was on the leopard’s side. Eventually, the frustrated hyena abandoned its vigil and melted back into the grass. Only then did the leopard descend, carefully lowering the carcass from the thin, swaying branches. Once safely on the ground, it settled in to feed more comfortably, undisturbed, reclaiming its hard-earned meal in peace. 

Birds, too, were making a kill and this time in the form of storks hunting in the shallow pools left behind by receding water. While photographing a striking pair of saddle-billed storks, the calm scene suddenly burst into action. In a swift, precise movement, one of the storks snatched a frog from beneath the surface. 

Held firmly in its long, powerful beak, the frog was tossed repeatedly into the air, skillfully juggled as the stork repositioned it for swallowing. With each toss, escape became less likely, and within moments its fate was sealed. The stork tilted its head back, and the frog disappeared, another efficient hunt completed with effortless grace. 

The Siligi boys are back in the Triangle, a welcome relief to see all three brothers together again, healthy and in excellent condition. Within just two days of their return from the Serengeti, they wasted no time re-establishing their presence, moving swiftly toward the far northern reaches of the Triangle, a familiar pattern they have mastered.  

This highly successful cheetah coalition had their first kill along the border, followed soon after by a young waterbuck, which was taken during their northward journey. Each hunt was executed with the precision and coordination that have made these brothers such formidable predators.

One late evening, we found them perched atop a slanted tree, scanning the plains far and wide before continuing on their way.  

This deliberate strategy of seeking higher ground allows them not only to locate potential prey but also to detect and avoid dangerous rivals such as lions. After assessing their surroundings, they melted back into the grass, ever alert, ever on the move.

Lion dynamics in the Triangle are constantly shifting, driven by males seeking to expand their territories and pass on their genes. At present, a new power balance is emerging in the northern Triangle, particularly around the Angama lioness and the River Pride.  

The Nyati males are on the move, actively expanding their territory. Reports from Guides indicate that the Topi Boys from the Greater Mara crossed the Mara River into the Triangle around mid-December last year.

During their incursion, they encountered the Angama lioness alone and chased her for some distance. Upon returning to the area where they first found her, Guides later discovered that she had cubs, which the invading males subsequently killed. 

The Topi Boys remained in the Triangle for several days before retreating into the Greater Mara, after having displaced both the Nomad Male and the Owino Male from their territories.

This upheaval created a temporary vacuum, prompting further movement among the resident males. In response, the Nyati males pushed northwards, capitalising on newly unoccupied territory. They first took over the Angama lioness and began mating with her, solidifying their claim. Recent reports suggest that they have now come into direct contact with the River Pride. With young cubs present in this Pride, a fierce confrontation is expected as the lionesses work to defend their offspring. — Robert Sayialel