This Week at Angama #363

Male cheetah coalitions can be territorial but free-roaming, depending on the availability of prey and mates. This week, we noticed the three Siligi males have been on the move. They crossed the Mara River and over the border into the Greater Reserves. Throughout their journey, we have not seen these boys in the company of mates; perhaps they are venturing further to maximise their mating opportunities.

They certainly don't lack prey as they keep close to the river, and it seems they are avoiding going deeper into the Greater Reserve. Hopefully, the three will soon pick up the scent of a fertile female. 

We caught up with the three boys across the river just as they were finishing up the remains of a successful kill — a Thomson's gazelle. Suddenly, the trio were startled and had to abandon their meal for safety. Behind us, drawn by the circling vultures that signalled an easy meal, a male lion approached, exuding dominance.

To our surprise, it was none other than Manywele, one of the four Inselberg males. These lions have also been expanding their territory by crossing the Mara River. According to rangers, the four Inselberg males frequently move back and forth across the river. Two of them were recently spotted in the Triangle with a kill, accompanied by the Maji Machafu females. 

Elephant mating requires both males and females to show physical signs that they are ready. Mature males periodically enter a period called musth, which happens every year and is clearly observed by their heightened testosterone levels, increased aggression, and strong determination to seek out receptive females. During this time, they secrete a pungent fluid from their temporal glands and dribble urine incessantly, signalling dominance and sexual readiness.

Female elephants reach sexual maturity between the ages of 10 and 12, signalling their fertility through a brief estrus cycle lasting two to six days. During this time, musth bulls — driven by heightened reproductive instincts — roam between family groups in search of a receptive female.

Using their trunks, they carefully assess potential mates by detecting pheromones in the air, sampling urine, or gently investigating with scent. In response, females may urinate in the presence of the bull, offering further cues. The dominant bull usually wins over the younger ones.

What becomes interesting is watching the younger bulls bide their time while the dominant one is preoccupied and not close to the estrus female. We watched as a young bull seized the opportunity with a female.

After a brief chase with a good head start to the bigger dominant bull, the younger bull caught up with the female and mounted her, risking serious aggression and possible injuries. However, the large male caught up before the younger male could successfully mate — avoiding a serious clash. With a birth interval of about 4-6 years, the gestation period lasts 22 months to ensure calves fully develop before birth.

This week, we were lucky to catch another glimpse of the shy female leopard we had spotted early in January. Still unaccustomed to vehicles, she quickly sought refuge in the tall grass when she was seen in the open. Barely visible, she demonstrated the leopard’s mastery of camouflage. 

Meanwhile, the Owino Pride continues to provide incredible sightings, confidently walking along the road and offering us excellent photographic opportunities at every turn. — Robert Sayialel

This week, we took a different approach and explored the wild beauty of Tsavo West National Park. Having to get going first thing in the morning to make the most of our day didn't bother me. There's something magical about an early morning safari — the crisp air, golden light, and the promise of adventure just beyond the horizon. We set off from Angama Amboseli at 05h00 and made our way to Tsavo West National Park, 93 kilometres away. We arrived at 06h40 at the Chyulu Gate in just under two hours, eager to immerse ourselves in the rich and diverse landscape ahead.

Our first stop was the Shetani Lava Flow, four kilometres from the Chyulu Gate. The name Shetani means ‘devil’ in Swahili, a name given by locals who, 500 years ago, witnessed fire erupting and flowing across the land. To them, it seemed like the devil himself had risen from the depths of the earth. It was easy to see why this place holds such mystique as we stood amidst the vast expanse of jagged black lava.

We spotted a pair of klipspringers gracefully navigating the rocky outcrops as we explored the eerie terrain. These small antelopes are perfectly adapted to their rugged environment, walking on the tips of their hooves like nimble ballerinas. While one watched, the other foraged — an unspoken agreement of survival in the wild. 

Driving further into the park, we encountered a herd of fringe-eared oryx, a species unique to southeastern Kenya and northeastern Tanzania. With their sleek bodies and long, straight horns, these striking antelope move in organised herds where dominant males control the pace and direction. We watched them interact and, in the distance, noticed an elephant bull dusting himself — the scene was spectacular and very different from Amboseli National Park's lush terrain.

Next, we arrived at Mzima Springs, a desert oasis. The crystal-clear water here originates from the Chyulu Hills, travelling underground through the cracks of the volcanic rock. This natural filter has resulted in transparent pools teeming with life.

We descended into the submerged viewing tank, built in 1969, offering a unique glimpse into the aquatic world of Mzima Springs. Schools of barbel fish darted between rocks, and we spotted a few mud suckers and tilapias drifting lazily in the current. Above the surface, lush riverine vegetation provided food and shelter for resident hippos and Sykes' monkeys, also known as the white-throated monkeys, while vibrant bird species flinted through the canopy.

Mzima Springs plays a crucial role beyond its beauty; it is a vital water source for Mombasa and other towns along its path. Knowing that this pristine waterway sustains so many lives added a deeper layer of appreciation to our visit. 

As we continued our journey through Tsavo West, we were lucky to spot a lesser kudu, an elusive antelope known for its shy nature, making it an important stop when sighted. Not far away, we encountered a flock of vulturine guineafowls. These birds thrive in dry, scrubby landscapes; their iridescent blue feathers shimmer brilliantly in the light. Watching them move in tight-knit groups, we admired their social behaviour and resilience.

As we continued our journey, we discussed the legendary lions of Tsavo. Unlike their Serengeti or Maasai Mara counterparts, many male lions here lack the iconic full mane. Scientists believe this is an evolutionary adaptation, possibly due to the region’s hot climate and thorny vegetation, which could make a thick mane more of a hindrance than an advantage.

While a mane is often seen as a sign of strength and virility, in Tsavo, survival favours those who can move swiftly and stealthily through the terrain. Similar to Angama Amboseli's resident lions, Osunash and Male 263, who have not grown full manes.

Although I have a special place in my heart for Amboseli, exploring different landscapes that told ancient stories and where animals proved extraordinary adaptions was exciting. We drove back to Kimana Sanctuary with cameras full of memories and a refreshed appreciation for the wild heart of Kenya. — Rio Marvin