This Week at Angama #351

While working in the Photographic Studio, a distinct call from a striped kingfisher pulled my focus. Three of them were perched together on a single tree, their calls forming a symphony that brought the morning to life. 

The Sanctuary stirs each dawn and dusk as birdsong fills the air. Animals either begin their search for breakfast or head to higher ground, preparing their senses for the coming night. Whether the day is starting or ending, there is always something to see and hear; one of my favourites is the golden light streaming through the acacia canopy — a breathtaking sight I wish would never end.

While the name 'Super Tuskers' is reserved for bull elephants with large tusks that often touch the ground, they are not the only animals with impressive tusks. One evening, we encountered a male warthog grazing slowly with some serious tusks of his own. The Sanctuary has a thriving warthog population, with females giving birth to litters of up to four piglets after a five-to-six-month gestation period. This abundant population makes warthogs a favourite for the Sanctuary’s lions. Warthogs are not territorial by nature, and they are frequently seen in large social groups called sounders.

Speaking of Tuskers, we've enjoyed watching Conor and his two bodyguards roam the Sanctuary this week. Content to linger close to the lodge in the evenings, they often wander near the stream and surrounding thickets. Much to our delight, a breeding herd has made its way through the Corridor into the Sanctuary, spending time near Guest Suite number one with a few calves in tow. The big males have been trailing behind, adding to the lively scene.

The new road through the Corridor has transformed our journey to Amboseli National Park, and right at the outset, we were fortunate to witness our first kill of the day. Angama guest Zoe suddenly spotted a bird landing nearby, and after confirming with Guide Jeremy, we realised it was a crow. We watched in amazement as it pecked the ground and emerged with a mouse. None of us had seen a crow hunt small prey before, but despite being omnivorous, it was not a usual sight. The crow swiftly flew off with its prize, leaving us thrilled by our first sighting of the day. 

Little did we know that the day would end with a similar encounter.  As we began to leave the Park, across the lake, Zoe spotted another kill — a black-headed heron gripping a grass snake in its beak. We watched, spellbound, as the heron began to swallow the snake alive, a dramatic and fitting end to a day.

Watching giraffes engage in necking — a behaviour used to assert dominance among males — is a mesmerising spectacle. Their necks are remarkably flexible and resilient, thanks to specialised vertebrae and powerful muscles that allow a full range of motion and support. Though they have only seven cervical vertebrae, like most mammals, each is uniquely adapted to handle the force of their neck-swinging battles. These displays are essential in maintaining social order. 

Zebra stallions also captivated us this week with their displays of strength and endurance. Confrontations erupt as males defend their territory or vie for leadership of a harem, using powerful jaws and sharp hooves to establish dominance. The bout typically begins with posturing — stallions circle each other, assessing the threat before launching into intense exchanges of biting, kicking and wrestling to unbalance their opponent. Watching them engage in this intricate display of power offers a window into their social hierarchies and the unfiltered beauty of life in the wild. —Japheth Supeyo

Beyond their role as nature’s cleanup crew, hyenas play a crucial part in balancing the food chain. By scavenging, they ease the burden on other predators, who can focus on sustaining healthy populations of prey species. After a hyena finishes its meal, what remains is left for vultures and other smaller scavengers, creating a ripple effect that benefits various species. 

In the fascinating social structure of hyena clans, females rule. Each clan is led by a dominant matriarch — a powerful female who commands respect and control over resources, especially at kill sites. As the clan's queen, she always gets the first pick of the meal, asserting her dominance while the lower-ranking males and younger hyenas wait their turn. This hierarchy ensures that the most vital and experienced member is well-fed, supporting the stability and strength of the entire group. 

Secretary birds, aptly named Sagittarius serpentarius or ‘snake archer’, are one of Africa's most captivating hunters. Unlike other birds of prey that soar above looking for food, secretary birds prefer to hunt on foot, striding confidently across the open plains in search of snakes and small animals. During the day, they’re often seen traversing the grasslands with purpose, but at night, they retreat to the safety of acacia trees, resting high above the ground.

Animals use different hunting tactics, and birds have some of the most unique techniques. Angama Guest Mary saw a secretary bird stomping the ground in the distance. Known for their impressive snake-hunting skills, these long-legged raptors use swift, deliberate stomps to disorient and disable snakes, then swiftly bend down to seize their prize. This particular bird’s mission ended in triumph as it snatched up a snake in its powerful beak and flew to a tree to enjoy its meal.

Earlier this week, Angama Guide Lemaalo spent some time watching the beautiful Luluka in the Greater Reserve. When she finally woke from a long nap, it was clear that she was still lactating. Her only surviving cub, Riziki, wasn’t with her, but recent sightings confirm he’s alive and thriving. After slowly waking up, she seemed ready to hunt, an instinctual drive to keep herself and her cub alive.

As seasonal rains transform the savannah, fresh, lush grass carpets the Mara, attracting zebras from far and wide. With food now plentiful, these typically dispersed animals gather in large groups to graze — a rare and remarkable sight. But the abundance also intensifies competition: the close quarters create a charged atmosphere where stallions assert dominance, establishing social order and securing breeding rights. It’s a powerful seasonal spectacle unique to this time of year when nature’s abundance leads to harmony and rivalry. —Rio Marvin