This Week at Angama #432

A nursing lioness carries many responsibilities in the wild, providing for herself while ensuring the survival of her cubs. Separated from the pride and hunting alone, every move she makes is calculated with care and caution.

Unlike lions hunting in coordinated groups, a lone lioness must rely entirely on patience, stealth, and experience, knowing that a failed hunt means wasted energy and hungry cubs waiting in concealment. This lioness, deep in the heart of Amboseli National Park, must balance feeding her vulnerable young, protecting them, and searching for food. 

Leftovers from a lion kill are more than abandoned remains; they are a dinner bell that echoes across the wilderness, drawing scavengers from miles away. From hyenas and jackals to vultures and crows, a carcass quickly becomes the stage for a fierce contest where hierarchy, timing, and boldness determine who eats first.

Amboseli guest Quentin Reeves was ready with his camera as a lone spotted hyena arrived at the scene, pushing its way through the gathering crowd. Despite its confidence, the hyena fed cautiously, remaining alert in case the lion returned to reclaim its prize. With powerful jaws capable of crushing bone, it tore through large chunks of meat before eventually moving on.

Its departure created an opening. A hopeful black-backed jackal edged closer, seizing the opportunity with determination. Yet its smaller size offered little authority in the face of the growing crowd. Around it swarmed impatient birds, undeterred by the jackal’s presence and eager for their share. Before long, the jackal was overwhelmed, and the carcass disappeared beneath a chaotic flurry of feathers, hooked beaks, and beating wings.

Among the unexpected arrivals was a pied crow. Though often overlooked, these intelligent birds are opportunistic scavengers, quick to take advantage of any feeding opportunity. Amid such intense competition, however, they remained mostly on the sidelines, waiting patiently for scraps and safer moments to approach.

Then came a dramatic turn. As the vultures jostled and fought among themselves, a shadow descended from above. It was a lappet-faced vulture, the largest and most powerful of Africa’s vultures. Larger than the surrounding African white-backed vultures and towering over the few Rüppell’s vultures present, it landed heavily in the centre of the melee.

With its massive wings spread wide, it kicked and pecked with authority, scattering rivals in every direction. Once dominance had been established, the giant quickly settled down to feed, fully aware of an unwritten truth among scavengers: power at a carcass is never permanent, and fortunes can change in an instant.

Rutting season for antelopes is in full display, with males pushing and chasing one another in competition for females. For Grant’s gazelles, it is a time of heightened activity, as territorial males become increasingly vigilant, staking out prime areas and fiercely defending them from rivals. Across the plains, chases, displays, and vocalisations become part of the daily rhythm, creating a lively spectacle of competition and courtship.

For the blue wildebeest, the rutting season transforms the landscape into a stage of noise, movement, and rivalry on an even greater scale. Bulls establish temporary territories and spend much of their time grunting, posturing, and driving competitors away. The air fills with snorts and calls as males gather and attempt to impress females as they move through their territories. Fierce encounters between rival bulls are common, with dust rising as horns lock in contests of strength and endurance.

These three shy male cheetahs frequently roam between the Sanctuary and the corridor leading into Amboseli National Park. Naturally cautious and elusive, they prefer to keep their distance, often disappearing into the grasslands long before they are noticed. Yet every so often, they reward guests with a fleeting glimpse, and their continued presence is an encouraging sign of the Sanctuary’s importance as both a safe refuge and a vital wildlife corridor. — Robert Sayialel

Unlike most weeks in the Mara, when the action begins at sunrise, this story unfolded in the evening. Hidden among the tall grass, a leopard rested beside a freshly killed warthog, enjoying the rewards of a successful hunt. Its intense gaze scanned the surroundings while flies buzzed around the carcass, ever alert to the possibility of scavengers or rival predators drawn by the scent of fresh meat.

In the wild, a meal is never completely secure. Lions, hyenas, and even other leopards are always ready to take advantage of an easy opportunity. What made this sighting particularly unusual was the leopard’s decision not to drag the warthog into a tree. Leopards are famous for hoisting their kills high into the branches, keeping them out of reach of scavengers and larger predators.

A warthog, however, is a heavy prize, and perhaps the leopard decided the effort outweighed the reward. It may also have felt secure enough in the area to feed on the ground. For several hours, the leopard remained close to its kill, feeding cautiously while constantly monitoring its surroundings.

On the eastern side of the Mara Triangle, Guide Moses spotted unusual movement in the distance. As he approached, the scene revealed one of nature’s most fascinating spectacles. A gathering of jackals, hyenas, and vultures was feeding on the remains of a wildebeest carcass.

Earlier reports over the radio suggested the wildebeest had originally been brought down by the Siligi Boys. However, before they could fully enjoy their hard-earned meal, another pride of lions arrived and took control of the carcass, forcing the Siligi Boys away from their kill.

After the dominant lions had eaten their fill and moved on, the opportunity was seized by the Mara’s cleanup crew. Vultures circled overhead before dropping down to pick at the remaining scraps, while hyenas used their powerful jaws to crush bones and extract every last bit of nutrition.

Nearby, jackals darted in and out, grabbing whatever morsels they could find while carefully avoiding confrontation with the larger scavengers. It was a perfect reminder that in the Mara, very little goes to waste. A single kill can feed multiple species, each playing an important role in maintaining the ecosystem's health and balance.

As we continued watching the activity around the wildebeest remains, movement in the distance caught our attention. About 800 metres away, the Siligi Boys were on the move. Having lost possession of their previous kill to another pride, the coalition appeared determined to find a new opportunity. With steady, purposeful strides, they crossed the plains, scanning the landscape for any sign of weakness among the grazing herds.

Not far ahead, a group of topis had already noticed the approaching predators. The antelopes remained alert, their heads held high and ears tuned to every movement. They continued feeding, but cautiously. Every step seemed calculated, allowing them to maintain a safe distance while keeping a close eye on the advancing lions.

The Siligi Boys attempted to close the gap, but the topis were not easily fooled. They always seemed one step ahead, proving that survival often depends on staying alert and reading the landscape as carefully as the predators do.

And the two young cheetah brothers, M54 and M55, were still being seen within the Mara Triangle. The pair, who have attracted plenty of attention since arriving in the area, appeared healthy and active as they continued exploring their new surroundings. Much of their time was spent moving across the open plains, carefully scanning the landscape for potential prey.

Every termite mound, rise in the terrain, and distant herd received their attention as they searched for an opportunity to hunt. Unlike lions, cheetahs rely on speed and precision rather than strength, making patience, positioning, and observation essential parts of their daily routine.

As they walked side by side, the bond between the brothers was evident. Their partnership increases their chances of success, allowing them to hunt more effectively than a solitary cheetah. Although they had not made a visible kill during our sighting, their focus suggested that food was high on their agenda. For M54 and M55, survival depends on finding enough food while avoiding dangerous encounters with larger carnivores.

For now, the brothers remain in the Triangle, continuing their search across the plains. With their determination and growing experience, it may only be a matter of time before their next hunting opportunity presents itself. The Mara continues to watch as M54 and M55 write the next chapter of their journey.

As the afternoon heat intensified across the Mara Triangle, many animals sought relief from the scorching sun. Elephants, in particular, gravitated towards water sources to quench their thirst and cool themselves after spending hours beneath the hot African sky.

Our first encounter was with a family of elephants, mostly females and their young calves. The herd displayed the strong family bonds for which elephants are renowned. The adults remained highly protective, constantly positioning themselves around the youngsters as they approached the water. After enjoying a long drink, the herd suddenly became restless.

What had been a calm, relaxed scene quickly became more urgent. The elephants began moving away at a surprisingly fast pace, keeping the calves safely in the middle of the group. The reason soon became clear: a large bull elephant was approaching from behind. Whether he was interested in joining the herd or simply following the same route, the females were not willing to take any chances.

Protective of their young and keen to maintain a comfortable distance, they increased their pace and moved away from the approaching giant. It was a fascinating reminder of elephants’ complex social dynamics. While they are often seen peacefully grazing together, family groups remain highly vigilant and consistently make decisions that prioritise the safety of their calves.

On the other side of the river, another elephant herd made its way to the water’s edge. After a long drink, two elephants stepped deeper into the river, seeking relief from the afternoon heat.

They splashed water over their bodies, rolled in the shallows, and began gently sparring with their tusks and trunks, sending water flying in every direction. It looked more like a friendly test of strength than a serious confrontation.

Nearby, several hippos watched from the water, largely unbothered by the commotion. For a brief moment, the river became a stage where two of Africa’s largest animals shared the same space.

As the week drew to a close, a heartwarming sight awaited us near the airstrip. A pair of grey crowned cranes were carefully tending to their young colt in the open grasslands. Known for their striking golden crowns and elegant appearance, these birds are also admired for their strong family bonds. Grey crowned cranes are believed to form long-term pair bonds, often remaining together for many years and, in many cases, for life.

The devoted parents moved slowly through the grass, keeping a watchful eye on their colt. While one searched for food, the other stayed close to the youngster, ensuring its safety. Their teamwork was evident, with both parents sharing the responsibilities of raising and protecting their offspring. The colt occasionally ventured a little farther afield before quickly returning to the security of the family group. Every movement seemed guided by the same goal: giving their young one the best possible start in the vast Mara ecosystem. — Arnold Omondi