This Week at Angama #431

The Amboseli and Tsavo ecosystems of southeastern Kenya are renowned for producing some of Africa’s most magnificent tuskers, earning the region its celebrated title, 'The Land of Giants'. Among them stands Tee-Jay, a remarkable 38-year-old bull whose enormous tusks and commanding presence have made him a favourite among wildlife enthusiasts and conservationists alike.

Tee-Jay is increasingly emerging as one of the region’s next great super tuskers. At just 38 years old, he is still in his prime, with many strong years potentially ahead of him. Since an elephant’s tusks continue growing throughout its lifetime, his already impressive ivory may become even more extraordinary with age.

Powered by surging testosterone, Tee-Jay is currently in musth — a period when bull elephants become intensely focused on finding receptive females. During this time, competition between males escalates, and conflict is often unavoidable.

Tee-Jay recently demonstrated his dominance when he encountered a rival shortly after both bulls had located a female in estrus. What followed was a dramatic display of strength and determination as the two giants clashed, pushing and testing one another beneath their immense weight. Tee-Jay quickly asserted his superiority, driving off his challenger and securing the advantage.

As the confrontation unfolded, younger bulls lingered nearby, carefully observing the contest while waiting for an opportunity of their own. In a bold and risky move, one younger male briefly mounted the female despite the presence of the dominant musth bulls — a daring act that could easily have triggered an aggressive response.

In the months following the rains, as seasonal water sources gradually begin to fade, life in Amboseli National Park once again revolves around its permanent swamps. Herds of elephants move steadily toward these vital wetlands, following ancient pathways shaped by generations of migration and survival.

These movements create some of Amboseli’s most breathtaking scenes, with elephant families crossing the open plains against the timeless backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro.

Calves weave playfully between towering adults while mothers and matriarchs guide the herd with calm purpose. As the elephants approach the life-giving swamps, they disappear into dense reeds and marsh vegetation in search of water and nourishment, only to emerge later coated in cooling mud.

Back in the Sanctuary, we encountered a herd of elephants moving with unusual urgency toward the river, driven by thirst and the promise of cool water. Their excitement was unmistakable, marked by the dark streaks of temporal gland secretions — a response elephants display for a variety of reasons, including heightened emotion and anticipation.

The moment they reached the riverbank, the herd wasted no time. Trunks stretched eagerly toward the water, drawing up litres at a time before expertly pumping the precious water into their mouths. 

For the youngest members of the herd, however, the task was far less simple. At the river’s edge, one determined calf struggled to reach the water, its trunk still too short to comfortably drink like the adults around it. Stretching farther and farther, unwilling to be left behind, the tiny elephant suddenly lost its footing and slipped into the shallow river.

For a brief moment, there was scrambling, splashing, and surprised cries as the calf wrestled awkwardly with the water. Yet the mother remained remarkably calm. Seemingly confident in the safety of the shallow river, she watched without panic, allowing her youngster to navigate the challenge alone. Driven by instinct and determination, the calf eventually steadied itself and climbed back onto solid ground.

After quenching their thirst, the elephants lingered along the river, spraying cool water across their massive bodies in search of relief from the day's heat. Among the herd, one elephant offered a remarkable glimpse into the intelligence these giants are known for. After coating itself in mud, it picked up a stick and skillfully used it to scratch an itch — a simple but fascinating display of problem-solving and adaptability.

Goshawks are skilled and patient predators of Africa’s open savannahs and dry bushlands. Although they lack the speed of falcons or the sheer strength of eagles, they are accomplished and calculated hunters. The eastern chanting goshawk’s diet ranges from rodents and reptiles to insects and small birds — and, in this case, snakes as well.

Amboseli Guide Alice and her guest encountered the spectacular sight of one of these raptors dragging a large rufous-beaked snake through the grass, pausing every so often to feed on its hard-earned catch. — Robert Sayialel

This week in the Mara began with a dramatic welcome. Storm clouds gathered heavily across the horizon, building into breathtaking scenes before the rain finally arrived. The skies felt alive — dark, electric, and powerful — ushering in the short rains after the recent long rains had already transformed the landscape.

The following mornings have been calm and rewarding — cool, fresh air and beautiful sunrises stretching across the Mara plains. The Mara always tells a different story with every season.

The Triangle was quiet that afternoon, but Guide Saitoti continued scanning every corner with patience and hope. Beneath the clear Mara sky, luck finally revealed itself high in a dry-barked tree where an African fish eagle rested calmly. Its sharp, hooked beak rubbed against the rough branches, perhaps cleaning itself after a successful hunt earlier that morning. Proud and alert, the powerful bird seemed to command the skies around it.

But Saitoti’s eyes never stopped searching. As he slowly scanned the nearby trees, another fascinating scene unfolded. A troop of baboons had climbed into a tree and discovered something unusual for their daily diet — the remains of an antelope carcass left behind by a leopard. Taking advantage of the predator’s absence, the opportunistic baboons quickly moved in to steal what meat remained.

It was a rare but remarkable sight. Although baboons mostly feed on grass, fruits, seeds, roots, and insects, they are highly adaptable and will occasionally eat meat when the opportunity arises. The baboons pulled and fought over scraps while constantly scanning their surroundings, fully aware that the leopard responsible for the kill could return at any moment.

After enjoying the dramatic encounter, we continued deeper into the Mara. About a kilometre ahead, one of the famous sausage trees stood proudly across the open plains. By now, the afternoon heat had settled heavily over the landscape, sending many animals in search of shade. As we carefully scanned the giant tree, another beautiful predator revealed itself.

Stretched comfortably across a thick branch was a leopard resting beside an antelope kill hanging from the tree. Its golden coat blended perfectly into the shifting shadows while piercing eyes watched the plains below. Despite the heat, the leopard remained alert, occasionally lifting its head to check for scavengers such as hyenas or baboons that might attempt to steal its hard-earned meal.

On the other end, near the Oloololo Escarpment, the Siligi boys looked completely relaxed. Their bellies were full, and there was barely any movement from them beneath the morning light. It seemed they had made a successful kill during the night and were now conserving energy, enjoying a rare moment of peace on the open plains.

Meanwhile, near the Kichwa Tembo Airstrip, another fascinating chapter of the Mara’s predator story was unfolding. A new coalition of male cheetahs, M54 and M55 — believed to have dispersed from the Serengeti ecosystem — stood alert across the open plains.

The two young males scanned the landscape carefully from a distance, their sharp eyes searching for opportunity. At one point, they attempted a hunt, revealing the determination and restless energy of cheetahs trying to establish themselves in unfamiliar territory.

Their arrival in the Triangle brings both excitement and uncertainty. Every new predator entering this ecosystem must find balance within territories already controlled by powerful residents. We hope M54 and M55 settle safely into the Triangle and continue thriving within this rich ecosystem.

But another challenge remains: avoiding direct conflict with the Siligi boys, who already dominate parts of the same territory. In the wild, survival is never only about hunting. It is also about timing, territory, and knowing when to fight and when to walk away. For this young cheetah coalition, the Mara will test their patience, speed, and intelligence in the days ahead.

As the week slowly came to an end, two lions rested close together, deep in the mating process. The male remained alert and protective while the lioness moved carefully through the short grass, both occasionally releasing soft roars to warn off intruders. For hours, they stayed side by side.

In the wild, mating is not simply about affection — it is about securing future generations and defending territory against the constant pressure of rival lions moving through the Mara ecosystem.

As darkness slowly approached, the final chapter of the week unfolded. Two hyenas had gathered around a buffalo carcass that had died from natural causes. Their powerful jaws cracked through bone while the sounds of feeding echoed across the plains. Yet despite the feast before them, they never truly relaxed. Every few seconds, heads lifted from the carcass. Eyes scanned left and right into the tall grass. One stood watch while the other fed nervously, fully aware that in the wild, even a free meal can quickly turn dangerous.

In the wild, even a free meal can quickly become dangerous. Lions, leopards, or rival hyena clans could appear at any moment to steal the carcass or challenge for dominance. The tension around the meal told its own story: survival in the Mara is never guaranteed. Even with full stomachs, instinct demands caution. As the last light disappeared beyond the horizon, the hyenas continued feeding beneath the growing darkness, closing yet another unforgettable week in the African wilderness. — Arnold Omondi