This Week at Angama #385

The sun had barely crested the horizon when we set off to find the Border Pride before they vanished into the Inselbergs. But the savannah had other plans. In the crisp air, a roar fractured the silence. Guide Sophie froze, eyes scanning. There we saw him: a lone male lion from the fearsome Taliban coalition emerging from the charred grass of a recent controlled burn.

He moved with the weight of power and undeniable presence. His mane looked ignited by the golden light, each breath a plume of molten mist. Passing us slowly and deliberately, his amber eyes fixed on a kingdom only he truly knew. We sat spellbound, hearts thudding, as he passed within arm’s reach of the vehicle.

Watching a giraffe drink is like witnessing a delicate dance between anatomy and survival. Despite their towering frames and long, stilt-like legs, they manage this simple act by spreading their front legs wide and folding them slightly, slowly lowering that long neck to the ground. It’s a moment where such a powerful animal suddenly looks vulnerable, almost uncertain, yet everything about the movement is precise and necessary. 

But here’s the remarkable part: lowering their head from such a great height could, in theory, flood their brains with blood. To avoid this, giraffes have an incredible internal system. Their hearts are large and strong, and hidden within their necks are special valves and a sponge-like cushion of vessels at the base of the brain known as rete mirabile. This network acts like a pressure damper, ensuring blood flows safely whether the giraffe is standing tall or bending down for a drink. So, while the act may seem clumsy on the outside, inside, it's a masterpiece of evolutionary design.

There are various ways that animals cool off in the wild, but this hyena chose a method that is true for its kind. With the afternoon sun blazing overhead and a lion just twenty meters away feasting on a buffalo carcass, the hyena knew it had to wait. Patience is part of survival. Instead of lingering too close to danger, it wandered down to the Salt Lick drift, where shallow water shimmered in the heat. Wading in slowly, it settled into the stream, half-submerged, eyes watching, body relaxed. Different species have their cooling rituals. Elephants flap their ears or coat themselves in mud. Hyenas? They pause in puddles. Even the most resilient scavengers know when to rest, and where.

The sun was beginning its descent when the radio crackled to life. Siligi’s boys/ the Kogatende cheetahs — had been spotted. Excitement surged as we veered off towards the sighting. There they were: three sleek males, moving with focused urgency. Every step was calculated, eyes scanning, alert to the opportunity and threat. They were deep in lion country now, trespassing into River Pride territory, where the balance between hunter and hunted can shift in seconds.

Every step was calculated, eyes scanning, alert to the opportunity and threat. They were deep in lion country now, trespassing into River Pride territory, where the balance between hunter and hunted can shift in seconds. These cheetahs had recently journeyed down from Serengeti, Tanzania, and now, it seemed, they were beginning to stake their claim in the Oloololo Escarpment in the Mara Triangle. They were born in 2021 in the Mara and raised by Siligi in northern Serengeti. Thanks to Cheetah Enthusiast, with the help of Guide Derrick Nabaala, they now have names and can be identified individually. Their names are Osiligi, Oldanyet, and Olopono. 

Reaching a lone shepherd’s tree, the brothers paused in unison, bodies pressed close as they left their calling cards for any wandering rivals. Then, as if following an unspoken plan, they vanished into the tall grass, their coats melting into the landscape. Moments later, they reappeared atop a termite mound, standing side by side. They studied the horizon from that height — eyes sharp, bodies still, tension thick in the air.

In the soft hush of early evening, Robert, one of Angama’s resident photographers, spotted her. High in the twisted branches of a Boscia tree lay the Border female, daughter of the well-known Salt Lick leopard. Unlike most of her kind who slip away at the mere sound of a safari vehicle, she is every photographer’s dream — curious, composed, and effortlessly photogenic. She scanned the horizon confidently, then stretched with the grace only a cat can manage before descending from her perch, each movement slow and deliberate. Within seconds, she vanished into the tall grass like she’d never been there. The encounter was fleeting, and seeing a leopard is always special, but photographing one like her feels like a gift. — Rio Marvin

Eagles have a way of stealing the show. These masters of the skies carry a splendour that is hard to miss, and a recent drive in Kimana Sanctuary turned unforgettable when Angama Guides and guests came across two tawny eagles perched in a tree with a puff adder.

A scuffle between the two raptors sent the snake plummeting to the ground, sparking a dramatic contest for dominance. Within minutes, one eagle took off, conceding defeat, leaving the other to reclaim its prize.  

It was fascinating to watch as the eagle cautiously approached the already lifeless snake, striking it repeatedly with its sharp beak and powerful talons to ensure the venomous prey posed no threat.

As the light faded, the eagle hoisted the snake back into the branches and began to feed.

The following day brought another surprise. Guide Salash and guests spotted yet another tawny eagle, this time with a far more unusual catch: the elusive, nocturnal genet cat. As if the rarity of the sighting wasn’t enough, the drama escalated when a flock of crows, ever the opportunistic scavengers, began circling too close for the eagle’s comfort. Unwilling to share its ‘catch of the day’, the eagle took flight, clutching its precious catch, and disappeared into the canopy of a nearby tortilis tree.

Nature never ceases to surprise, and with its strength, strategy, and sheer magnificence, the tawny eagle proved once again why they rule the skies. 

A female cheetah has been spending more time in the Sanctuary. Her relaxed nature around vehicles allows for calm, unhurried sightings. Unlike male cheetahs, which may form lifelong coalitions mostly with siblings, females lead solitary lives, roaming vast areas except when raising cubs or during brief mating periods.  

One evening, a female cheetah delivered a thrilling surprise on a night drive through Kimana Sanctuary, where Angama Amboseli guests have exclusive access to after-dark safaris. With astonishing precision, she brought down a Grant’s gazelle fawn in near darkness. Seeing her so comfortable navigating the open plains, we hope she keeps this haven as her new home.

Often overshadowed by larger wildlife, insects are essential to the health of this ecosystem — pollinating plants, breaking down organic matter, and serving as a vital food source for birds, reptiles and mammals. Take the damselfly, for instance, which is commonly mistaken for a dragonfly. While both belong to the same group of insects, observing their wings at rest is one of the easiest ways to tell them apart. Dragonflies hold their wings out to the side, perpendicular to their bodies like an aeroplane, while damselflies fold their wings neatly along their backs, giving them a more slender appearance.  

These colourful, buzzy creatures are beautiful and are essential in controlling mosquito populations. Throughout their lifecycle, they feed on small aquatic and non-aquatic insects. 

Impala mothers are attentive and protective. They often hide their newborn calves in tall grass for the first few weeks to protect them from predators. They return regularly to nurse, allowing the calf to build strength before joining the herd.  

Unlike many antelopes, impala calves can stand and walk within minutes of birth, a crucial survival trait in a landscape where danger is never far. Once strong enough, the calves join a nursery group within the herd, watched over by the mothers as they learn to navigate the unforgiving landscape together. 

It’s always rewarding when guests step into the Angama Photographic Studio with a brand-new camera, often purchased to document a once-in-a-lifetime safari. More often than not, these cameras arrive set to Auto, but a quick 45-minute crash course can transform a hobbyist into a budding wildlife photographer. Our goal is simple: to help guests get the most out of their safari by capturing moments that will last a lifetime. One remarkable guest, Jama, arrived eager to learn and document their journey, and the results were impressive, to say the least. These are the moments we take pride in here at the Photographic Studio. — Sammy Njoroge