This Week at Angama #365

Cheetahs prioritise self-preservation over unnecessary confrontation. However, the three Kogatende brothers (Siligi's sons) are proving to be an exception. Recently, they have been roaming extensively and sticking to our side of the border, seemingly determined to establish their own free range and find mates. 

Early one morning, on a safari drive to the border with Guide Jeremy, we spotted nearly every big cat. We then set off to track the three brothers, who were actively marking their territory as they searched for food. They have developed interesting hunting strategies, opting to flush out warthogs from the tall grass, particularly those with piglets, for a quick meal rather than expending excessive energy chasing antelopes.

As we manoeuvred to capture a shot of the brothers atop a termite mound, I suddenly heard growling and squealing. Jeremy cut off the engine, and we instantly knew they had caught a warthog hiding in the grass. We reversed and approached the tree and encountered the unexpected. The brothers were hissing at the base of the tree, staring upwards. Following their gaze, we spotted a female leopard perched high in the branches.

Just last week, we saw the Salt Lick male lingering around the border and seeing this female showing signs of being on heat sparked hope that they might mate. This could potentially bring new cubs into the future.

We spotted elephants bathing in the stream as we left the cheetah brothers and went uphill toward Angama Mara. Nearby, a lone buffalo lay motionless in the grass where the elephants had passed. Its stillness caught our attention, and we scanned the surroundings through binoculars when our eyes locked onto a lioness just five metres away from the buffalo.

We rushed down to the scene, arriving as the first spotters, and there stood two formidable titans, locked in an intense standoff. Lions and buffalos have been archenemies for generations, the buffalo being a perfectly sized meal for a pride, yet equally capable of putting up a fierce fight. With their powerful builds, lethal horns, and a strong sense of community, buffalos will even defend a fallen member, sometimes long after death.

The two lionesses had to be strategic. Lacking the numbers of a full pride, they couldn’t afford a reckless attack; an injured buffalo cow could still deliver a fatal blow. It was clear they had made a few attempts already, resting intermittently before what would now be their final strike. One lioness took on the dangerous task of weakening the buffalo’s hind legs while the other patiently waited for the perfect opening to deliver the death bite. 

The buffalo fought with strength and stood with a lioness clinging to its face. But exhaustion eventually set in, and the battle came to an end. We suspected that the lionesses were still young and inexperienced, at least when hunting a buffalo, because it took them nearly an hour to suffocate their prey.

The following day, their efforts for such a hard-earned meal were revealed. Two of their sisters were spotted by guest Robin Neumann on a safari drive with Guide Fred Campo. Arriving at the carcass, they brought along just a few months-old cubs. It was a heartening sight, evidence of new life within the Border Pride and a promising sign for the growing lion population in the Maasai Mara.

Traversing the vast Mara often requires the comfort of companionship to face life’s challenges. While most species mate only briefly during specific seasons, leaving the task of nurturing their young primarily to the females, some form lifelong bonds.

One striking example is this pair of grey-crowned cranes, gracefully soaring from the escarpment over the savannah. These cranes are known to gather in large numbers during 'ceremonies' reminiscent of weddings, where two young birds are paired. The newly united couple then perform an elegant dance before taking flight together to start their family.

Jackals are known for their tightly-knit social structure. However, this week brought a sombre scene: a solitary jackal. The little creature appeared confused and dejected, lingering on the road motionless, so we had to drive around it carefully. Its face and eyes were laden with sorrow, perhaps reflecting the recent loss of its partner.

It is often said that jackals can even exhibit suicidal tendencies after such a loss. The jackal looked severely malnourished, likely due to the absence of a hunting companion, and we could only hope that it hadn't fathered pups, for their future would be just as bleak.

Despite its name, the African rock python prefers wet, marshy habitats over rocky terrain. It uses the cover of water to ambush unsuspecting victims who come to quench their thirst silently.

Angama Guide Wilson, has been fortunate in spotting this stunning reptile multiple times. On one occasion, his guests had the rare opportunity to witness an attempted hunt. The python lay motionless in the water, patiently waiting for its next meal, though this time, it was unsuccessful.

The African rock python has fascinating adaptations that make it a masterful predator. Heat-sensitive pits along its lips detect warm-blooded prey, even in complete darkness. Unlike more advanced snake species with a single functional lung, pythons retain two — an evolutionary relic. They also possess small, visible pelvic spurs, believed to be vestiges of hind limbs from their ancestors.

These pythons are oviparous, laying between 20 and 100 hard-shelled eggs in abandoned burrows, termite mounds, or caves. Unlike most snakes, the female shows maternal care, coiling around the eggs to protect them from predators and possibly aid incubation. Once the hatchlings emerge, typically after 90 days, she continues to guard them for up to two weeks, which is unusual behaviour for snakes.

Drifting over the Mara River at dawn feels like stepping into a dream. A thick fog winds through the dense forest, mirroring the river’s gentle flow. As the sun crests the horizon, an enchanting transformation unfolds; the mist and the first golden rays intertwine, casting a soft, ethereal glow over the treetops. 

We watched in wonder, the only sound being the occasional roar of the hot air balloon's flames. Then, as the burner quiets, the world below comes alive with birdsong. Capturing golden light demands patience, skill, and an instinct for creativity, but the result is extraordinary when everything aligns. —Japheth Supeyo

This week, we witnessed a rare and fascinating sight — a pair of red-billed hornbills preparing their nest. We watched the female working on the nest while her partner searched for food. To protect their eggs and chicks from predators, hornbills seal the nest entrance with mud and droppings, leaving only a small opening for the male to deliver food.

During this time, the female sheds most of her flight feathers, making her completely dependent on her partner. Once the chicks grow, the female breaks out of the sealed nest and helps the male reseal it, leaving the young behind to continue their development in safety.

Elephants primarily sleep standing up rather than lying down, which allows them to remain alert to potential environmental dangers. Their large size makes getting up from a lying position difficult and time-consuming, so these magnificent beings lay their trunks on the ground to detect vibrations through the earth. This ability, known as seismic communication, allows elephants to detect and respond to distant signals. 

While driving to Amboseli National Park, guest Robin spotted the remarkable resident cheetah mother with her five cubs. Despite being alone, she has proven to have great instincts by successfully caring for her little ones. Cheetah cubs stay with their mother for about 18 months, during which she will teach them essential survival skills before they venture off on their own.

Before arriving at the National Park's gates, we spotted the gerenuk, also known as the giraffe gazelle. This species is part of the Special Five — a group of lesser-known but fascinating animals, including the reticulated giraffe, beisa oryx, Somali ostrich (also known as the blue-necked ostrich), and Grévy's zebra, mostly found in northern Kenya.

Gerenuks are mostly found in the Northern parts of Kenya, but surprisingly, they are also found in the wildlife corridor between Kimana Sanctuary and Amboseli National Park. Male gerenuks have stout, ringed horns, while females do not. They are known for their long, slender necks and unique ability to stand on their hind legs to reach twigs and foliage high up in trees. Their bodies are adapted to conserve water, making them perfectly suited for arid and semi-arid environments, as they get all the moisture they need from the leaves, flowers, and fruits they eat.

As we drove through Amboseli National Park, we were welcomed to a show of a great white pelican catching a fish using its flexible bill pouch to subdue it. Pelicans don't swallow their prey immediately; instead, they hold it in their pouch, where the fish suffocates due to the lack of water. Remarkably, a pelican’s bill pouch can expand to hold up to three times more than its stomach, allowing it to catch multiple fish before swallowing.

Kimana Sanctuary is a bird haven. While on a morning game drive, we spotted the bateleur eagle nesting while the male was seated at a vantage point to seek any potential prey or carcasses. — Rio Marvin