HOME Blog This Week At Angama #160

This Week At Angama #160

After being away for a week, Adam returns to the Mara Triangle, delighted to be back in familiar territory, exploring the subtle changes and nuances which make this landscape so appealing
A large herd of buffalo make their way through the Mara Triangle
A large herd of buffalo make their way through the Mara Triangle

I was fortunate enough to spend last week down in the southern throws of the Serengeti, in the midst of the wildebeest calving season. What a treat to see, and a joy to explore another part of the massive Serengeti-Mara ecosystem. This landscape is truly one of the most special on earth.

Sunrise across the Maasai Mara
Sunrise across the Maasai Mara f 5.0, 1/250, ISO 500, -1.67
Balanite trees dot the Mara Landscape
Balanite trees dot the Mara Landscape f 7.1, 1/640, ISO 400, -0.67

Happy to be back, within hours of landing at Angama, I was behind the wheel and off into the park – I do love my job. I enjoy the familiarity of the trees, the roads, and keeping abreast with the local animals. It is as if we lead parallel lives at times. Unusually, for this time of the year, the rain continues to fall. The other night we had 80mm. Did you know that last year, up here on the escarpment, we received over 2000mm of rain? 30% more than the average year. No wonder I got stuck in the mud so much.

A herd of over 600 buffalo graze amongst the Inselbergs
A herd of over 600 buffalo graze amongst the Inselbergs f 7.1, 1/320, ISO 400, -1.0
A typical Mara landscape
A typical Mara landscape f 5.6, 1/400, ISO 400, -0.67

There is no doubting the scenic beauty of the Mara Triangle - the thriving Red Oat Grass, backed up by the Oloololo Escarpment. In the south, the picturesque Inselbergs, dotted across the plains. Or the sweeping distant views of the Mara River as it gently meanders towards Lake Victoria.

A male impala oversees his harem of females
A male impala oversees his harem of females f 4.0, 1/250, ISO 500, -0.67
Frantic and exhausted, herding his females is hard work
Frantic and exhausted, herding his females is hard work f 9.0, 1/40, ISO 320, -0.67

I came across a male impala, running in all directions. He was frantic. By his side were a staggering 124 females. It is well known that impala rams ‘gather’ females into harems, but I have never come across one with such a big collection. He looked exhausted as he continuously kraaled the ladies into a seemingly impossible mass of bodies. On the outskirts, peering at him, whilst licking their lips, were over 20 other males – bidding their time before they challenged this current king for the throne. I couldn’t help but slow the shutter down in an attempt to capture how desperately he was running around.

Male giraffe ‘necking’
Male giraffe ‘necking’
Using different camera settings to capture the action
Using different camera settings to capture the action f 32.0, 1/13, ISO 125
The blurred effect emphasises the drama of the fight
The blurred effect emphasises the drama of the fight f 25.0, 1/15, ISO 125

Another battle of sorts was taking part down by the rivers edge. Two male giraffe were ‘necking’ for authority. A behaviour first researched in the 1960s, these ritualised actions of standing head-to-tail and swatting each other in turns with their heads and necks is understood to be a bonding mechanism whereby a hierarchy is created amongst the males. It makes for fascinating viewing.

Fungi sprouts from elephant dung
Fungi sprouts from elephant dung f 10.0, 1/500, ISO 5000, -0.33
A jackal keeps an eye on a nearby family of guineafowl
A jackal keeps an eye on a nearby family of guineafowl f 4.0, 1/1250, ISO 320, -0.33
A family of guineafowl search for food after the rains
A family of guineafowl search for food after the rains f 5.6, 1/1000, ISO 640, -0.33
A guineafowl mother keeps a watchful eye for danger
A guineafowl mother keeps a watchful eye for danger f 4.0, 1/640, ISO 400, -0.33

The rain fuels so much life which is intrinsically connected; it just takes a little patience and an inquisitive eye to see the stories that are unfolding. A simple heap of elephant dung suddenly explodes with mushrooms. A family of guineafowl dig in the dung, scratching and pecking in search of creepy crawlies and seeds. Nearby, tucked away in the grasses, a pair of jackals watch with interest. Dare the guineafowl make one wrong move and the jackals will feast.

A lone hyena on morning patrol
A lone hyena on morning patrol f 5.6, 1/1250, ISO 400
A female waterbuck on high alert
A female waterbuck on high alert f 3.2, 1/2500, ISO 400, -0.67

Sauntering down the road comes a hyena returning to her den after a busy night in the flooded grasslands. Her distinctive gait always has me in chuckles. A nearby young male waterbuck keeps a beady eye on her until she is well off into the distance.

A female elephant feeds on an acacia sapling
A female elephant feeds on an acacia sapling f 3.5, 1/1000, ISO 320, -0.33
Montagu’s harrier in flight
Montagu’s harrier in flight f 4.0, 1/4000, ISO 500

An elephant feeds, oblivious to the fuss of the hyena. She doesn’t care much for these scavengers. If she had a small baby with her she may be more concerned. Instead, she continues to pluck away at the delicious soft grasses and finds a young and tasty Acacia sapling. Looking skywards I see a Montagu’s Harrier in flight. I manage to fire off a few rapid shots, allowing me to inspect what she was carrying. A clump of grasses tangled up in her claws. Did she go for a kill in the grasses, only to come up without a feast?