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This Week At Angama #133

Every river crossing has its own element of drama, but one crossing this week took the drama to another level. Warning - this may not be for the faint of heart
Taking the plunge into the Mara River
Taking the plunge into the Mara River

I write this from the incredibly privileged position of being able to live full-time in the Maasai Mara. Almost every day I venture out into Africa’s greatest and most exciting Reserve in search of animal sightings and encounters. Armed with a small arsenal of cameras, I drive around in search of fresh content – the intention: to share the magic with all of you across the globe and to build a visual diary and image bank that we can look back on in years to come. Every day here is special, and every passing week different to the next. But some weeks are just remarkable. And this was one of them. Enjoy This Week At Angama. It may be my most memorable yet.

Staggering numbers of wildebeest are currently in the central parts of the Mara Triangle
Staggering numbers of wildebeest are currently in the central parts of the Mara Triangle f 8.0, 1/400, ISO 800, -1.0

The Migration has reached fever pitch here in the Mara, particularly in the Triangle as rains continue to lure them deeper into Kenya. This is my third Migration season and I have no hesitation in saying that it is the biggest.

Above: Front row seats to the ever-changing stage
Above: Front row seats to the ever-changing stage

Had you asked anyone based in the Mara a few months ago, whilst we were in the middle of the heaviest rainfall in history, we would have predicted that this year’s Migration would be late and smaller than normal – how wonderful it is to be proven wrong. 

Looking back at the Oloololo Escarpment towards the iconic rounded kopjes
Looking back at the Oloololo Escarpment towards the iconic rounded kopjes Photo by Adam Bannister

Despite the very late, and unprecedented rainfall, the herds have marched across the grasslands and are now spread out across the plains. Like ants they move. Currently they sit right on Angama Mara’s doorstep.

A zebra on the move
A zebra on the move [f 14.0, 1/40, ISO 100]

Zebra have moved in too, although their numbers don’t come close to the hundreds of thousands of wildebeest dotted across the plains. Panning is always a photographic challenge, but the results, if done correctly, can really go a long way towards showing movement, emotion and energy.

Zebra drinking in a tranquil pond
Zebra drinking in a tranquil pond f 5.6, 1/400, ISO 125

As a photographer I always get excited when I watch zebra moving towards watering holes for a drink. You just know that there is bound to be something interesting to capture. A time of excitement, social gatherings and playtime. On this particular scene it was the contrasting colours of the water-lilies which caught my eye.

Zebras make for the perfect black-and-white conversions
Zebras make for the perfect black-and-white conversions f 5.0, 1/2000, ISO 640, -0.33

Zebras make for the perfect black-and-white conversions.

A family of elephant graze together
A family of elephant graze together f 5.0, 1/1250, ISO 500

Elephant behaviour changes rather dramatically during this peak Migration time. Their numbers are still high, but they move out of the park as they look to distance themselves from the herds. They still move into the swampy waterlogged areas to feed during the daytime, heading up the escarpment at night. This week I have already had elephants visiting my garden at the lodge no less than three times.

One of the Purungat males has been mating with the Purungat Pride
One of the Purungat males has been mating with the Purungat Pride f 5.6, 1/1250, ISO 400, -0.67

Lion dynamics continue to throw curve-balls at us. However, things do seem to be stabilising a little amongst the males. As many as 20 different male lions were seen by the Angama Mara guiding team this week alone. Mating in lion is always a rather explosive, and short affair, and my photographic tip is that you need to keep your shutter speed faster than normal to ensure you get the movement sharp.

A martial eagle enjoys an early morning meal
A martial eagle enjoys an early morning meal f 5.6, 1/1600, ISO 500, +0.33

I found this bird perched in a single balanites tree near Serena Airstrip . After taking this, I sent it to Stratton Hatfield, from the Mara Raptor Project who confirmed his identity as the ‘Olive Pair Male’ and told me that this pair has a nest with a chick nearby. 

The habitual route taken by a Martial Eagle route
The habitual route taken by a Martial Eagle route

This specific martial eagle is actually carrying a GPS tracker (a small device on his back) which allows Stratton, all the way in Europe, to monitor his movements. He sent me this screenshot which shows the detail to which he can research these birds using technology. 

It's survival of the fittest out here
It's survival of the fittest out here f 5.6, 1/1000, ISO 500

The Migration is a time of plenty and the animals are all enjoying the abundance of meat. Regardless of this, daily disputes between scavengers take place. Running, jumping, flying, calling, crying, biting and squawking all provide for fascinating, and often comical, sightings. 

Ruppel’s griffon vultures follow the Migration
Ruppel’s griffon vultures follow the Migration f 5.6, 1/400, ISO 160, +0.67

For months at a time we simply do not see these birds in the area as they move south into Tanzania. They play a crucial role in cleaning up much of the dead animal matter found littered across the plains at this time of the year. The tilt screen on modern day cameras enables you to seemingly get lower to the action than ever before. A low angle, together with a shallow depth of field often provides for a more interesting image and perspective 

Two lionesses from the Owino Pride sitting out a rainstorm
Two lionesses from the Owino Pride sitting out a rainstorm f 2.8 1/640, ISO 1250, -1.0

This week we have had afternoon rain showers most days. Although this is to be expected to some degree, the amount of rain we have had in a short time is rather unusual. At times the rain has been incredibly heavy, leaving the animals with little option but to sit it out. The benefit of this rain, however, is that because the Migration is largely rain-controlled, the wildebeest are moving further and further north. I remember two years ago it was only in late October that the wildebeest got to where they are already this year. And last year they didn’t even get here. This rain may just be a major factor in the outstanding Migration we are in the midst of. 

The only option is to wait out the heavy rain
The only option is to wait out the heavy rain f 4.5, 1/50, ISO 500, -1.0

Not technically the most amazing photograph, but it has such a wonderful story to it. I opted for a slow shutter speed to try portray just how heavy the rainfall was. Those of you who follow lion dynamics in the Mara Triangle will be familiar with the Owino Pride. This pride had a young male lion a few years ago who was subsequently pushed out by the Cheli Nomads (Olalashe and Mkia). He was destined to a difficult life on the run. Back in May this year, Mkia, got involved in a battle with the Kichwa Males – and has not been seen since. This left Olalashe the sole ruler of the Owino Pride. In a remarkable turn of events he has since allowed the young male to return from isolation and team up. Here, the Owino Young Male, is seen protecting one of Olalashe’s cubs from the heavy rain.

Lionesses endure the elements together