This Week at Angama #366

This week in the Mara was spectacular, with each safari drive more thrilling than the last. Among the most exciting moments was a rare sighting high in a Balanites tree — a shy male leopard and a female leopard from the border, each perched on separate branches. This unusual pairing confirmed what we had suspected from last week's sighting of her in heat: mating had likely occurred.

Typically solitary, leopards only come together briefly for courtship, making this glimpse all the more special. If all goes well, the Border female could soon be expecting cubs. She has successfully raised her previous cubs to adulthood, and they can fend for themselves. So, she is ready to focus on a new litter, contributing to the growing leopard population in the Mara, a promising sign for conservation efforts.

We quickly noticed that the male didn’t seem accustomed to having vehicles around him as much as the female. We watched as he hastily came down from the tree when he got the chance and ran off into a nearby bush to hide.

The Angama lioness once again demonstrated her unique habit of climbing trees. We found her comfortably perched on a sturdy branch, lazily watching her cubs below. However, their rest was interrupted when a protective elephant mother charged at them, sending the young lions scurrying for cover. This reaction was not completely unexpected — elephants are highly protective of their young and will not tolerate predators near their families. 

Later, Guide Wilson witnessed a brilliant display of the same lioness' hunting skills. From her higher vantage point, she locked eyes on a topi grazing in the distance. As soon as we left to return to Angama, she launched into action, gracefully descending and sprinting towards her prey. Within moments, she secured a meal for her cubs, proving again why she is a master hunter. 

One of the most dramatic events of the week was a brutal clash between two buffalo bulls, which left them locked by their horns, and their defensive features became their greatest enemy. These battles for dominance are common, but this fight took a tragic turn. Locked in combat, neither buffalo yielded, and their prolonged struggle led to their inevitable demise. The exhaustion from their fight left them vulnerable, and once again, the Angama lioness seized the opportunity. Alongside her cubs, she managed to take down one of the weakened buffalo. 

However, the drama didn’t end there. The commotion and loud distress noises attracted a pack of hyenas. The most cunning scavengers and notorious for their ability to overwhelm predators through sheer numbers, and this time was no different. They swiftly chased the lioness and her cubs off their kill with relentless aggression.

A feeding frenzy followed, with the hyenas tearing through both fallen buffalo in record time. It was a stark reminder of the Mara’s unforgiving nature, where survival is dictated by strength, strategy, and, often, sheer luck. 

While the Super Tusker gene pool is predominantly associated with the Amboseli and Tsavo ecosystems, we have been fortunate to spot some impressive tuskers here in the Mara Triangle. One was of a magnificent female matriarch leading her herd across the plains.

Her long, curved tusks were a testament to decades of survival, wisdom, and leadership. Matriarchs play a crucial role in elephant societies, guiding their families through seasonal migrations, teaching young calves how to navigate their environment, and ensuring the survival of future generations.

We also encountered a bull with equally impressive tusks gracefully grazing in the tall grass, hiding his full majesty. The presence of these tuskers in the Mara underscores the importance of preserving their habitats. With poaching still a threat in parts of Africa, it is crucial to continue conservation efforts to protect these gentle giants. 

Among Mara's many avian wonders, grey-crowned cranes and secretary birds are a spectacle. Standing just over 1 metre (nearly four feet tall), they stride across the grasslands with an air of authority. Unlike most birds of prey, these masterful hunters hunt on foot, using their powerful legs to stomp on snakes and small mammals with deadly precision.

Few sights are as heartwarming as a newborn elephant calf. This week, we were lucky to witness one that was only a week old, still unsteady on its feet and struggling to navigate the tall grass. At this early stage, calves depend highly on their mothers, who gently use their trunks to guide them. The challenges are immense — tall grass, deep river crossings, and the constant threat of predators make survival daunting. 

Yet, despite these difficulties, elephant calves are incredibly playful. By the time they reach a month old, they begin engaging in mock battles with their siblings, splashing joyfully in waterholes and testing the limits of their tiny trunks. —Japheth Supeyo

The reality of life for prey animals in the wild is constant vigilance, filled with anxiety from the ever-present threat of predators. A single mistake can mean death, so most prey species have evolved keen senses of hearing, sight, and smell to detect and evade danger.

However, these defences are compromised in certain situations — such as during birth — when the mother is highly vulnerable. Labour often leaves her immobile, limiting her ability to detect approaching predators or escape in time. This harsh reality unfolded for a mother giraffe that had chosen a secluded spot to give birth, only for a group of lions to stumble upon her, turning a moment of new life into a tragic encounter with nature's unforgiving cycle.

We spotted this eleven-member pride occupying this territory in Amboseli National Park. While scanning the surroundings in search of the rest of the pride, we discovered the remains of the newborn giraffe. What became an easy meal for the lions provided sustenance for the pride, feeding eleven strong individuals for days. We watched as they rested in the shade to escape the midday heat while staying close to their carcass. As is common among lions, one lioness remains behind to guard the kill against potential scavengers.

The Amboseli ecosystem is a haven for a diverse species of birds. One magnificent bird is the Taveta weaver or Taveta golden weaver, a species endemic to this region. This medium-sized bird has strikingly vibrant golden-yellow plumage in males, while females and juveniles are duller with an olive-yellow tone.

While admiring the weaver, another bird caught my attention outside the Studio window. The beautiful sunbird — yes, that's its actual name. The male boasts a striking iridescent plumage with metallic green, blue, and purple hues with red and yellow colours along the body, a curved black bill and an elegant long tail. In contrast, the female is subtly coloured, with olive-brown upperparts and a yellowish underside.

These birds share a resemblance to hummingbirds in appearance and behaviour. Their rapid wingbeats and hovering movements while feeding on nectar from flowers make them seem like distant relatives, though they are not closely related. 

We were thrilled to see a mother cheetah and her three sub-adult cubs in Kimana Sanctuary in December last year. These four have returned — though still a bit skittish — but their frequent visits are an encouraging sign that this Sanctuary is a haven for them. With a low population of lions in the area, we hope these cheetahs feel more at ease and continue to return.

A week-long wrap-up wouldn't be the same without striking shots of Kimana's resident bulls, perfectly framed against Mount Kilimanjaro. Lately, the mountain has been exceptionally clear from morning to midday before clouds roll in and veil its snowy peak. —Robert Sayialel