This Week at Angama #358

Tracking lions has always been one of the most exciting parts of a safari. During the wet season, however, the challenge becomes greater, as the slightest drizzle can erase any trace of footprints. We headed toward where the two males were last seen, but the overnight rainfall had completely washed away any evidence of where they had moved during the night. To our surprise, three young elephant bulls suddenly began charging toward us in the distance, then halted and started sniffing the air, almost as if trying to direct our attention. We dismissed their behaviour, assuming that the largest bull was merely asserting dominance within the group.

Just as we were about to drive off, Osunash called for his brother, and everyone excitedly peered around. We found the two lions not far from each other. We watched Male 263 limp over to join Osunash, and we noticed an open wound on his left paw — a recurring injury that we hope will heal soon. Fortunately, their bellies were full, a reassuring sign. We spent nearly an hour observing them until they wandered into a nearby bush where they had hidden their kill. The sound of bones crunching soon filled the air.

This week has been a celebration of orange hues, reflected in everything from the mesmerising sunsets to the vivid wildlife inhabiting the Sanctuary. Among the highlights were the striking agama lizards and the enchanting African hoopoe. With its distinctive crown and rich plumage, this vibrant resident often digs in the ground for worms to feed its young. On one of my evening walks, I was lucky to find a hoopoe perched gracefully on a tree, with one of the Guest Suites forming a serene backdrop. The soft evening light allowed me to capture some stunning close-up shots showcasing its beauty. 

At the end of the pathway lies a small hill scattered with volcanic rocks, a haven for the agile agama lizards. These fascinating creatures enjoy sunbathing on the rocks, though they’re just as content scampering along Amboseli's dung walls. On this occasion, I observed a male and female side by side, which made it easy to notice the stark differences between the sexes. The males stand out boldly in their vivid shades of orange and blue, while the females are more muted but no less captivating in their subtle, earthy tones. The interplay of colours, light, and wildlife made this week feel like an artist's palette come to life.

We had an unforgettable experience with Guide Alice and guests on a safari in Amboseli National Park. We saw a male ostrich flaunting a vivid, intense pink hue, a sure sign that he was ready to mate. We noticed a female ostrich performing an elaborate, enticing dance across the road, inviting the male to approach. 

We watched in anticipation as the male approached her, every step deliberate and purposeful. He joined in the display, synchronising with hers in a silent rhythm. The choreography was an intricate blend of instinct and courtship. Then came the defining moment: the female settled down, showing her readiness. The drama culminated in a successful mating, a fascinating glimpse into the wild.

Over the past week, I've observed a remarkable increase in baboon troops within the Sanctuary. One day, on our way back to the lodge, we encountered a troop that appeared to be close to 150 members. Most were females, many carrying babies securely on their backs or nestled against their bellies, a critical phase where survival depends on this constant attachment.

Only when they gain enough strength and confidence can they ride on their mothers' backs or toddle nearby during foraging. These early weeks of physical connection are crucial in developing the babies' coordination and social bonds within the troop. Watching the dynamic interactions among the baboons — how the mothers effortlessly navigate the terrain despite their young cargo — shows their resilience and the complexities of their social structure. 

It's fascinating to consider the growth of these troops and what it indicates about the Sanctuary's ecosystem. The expanding population reflects ample food resources, minimal predation, and a thriving environment. However, such large groups also question the habitat's future dynamics and resource management. Observing this balance between the troop's needs and the carrying capacity of their environment will undoubtedly provide more insights into these intelligent and adaptive primates. 

Back in the National Park, the large elephant families of Amboseli are thriving during the wet season, relishing the abundance of water and cooler temperatures. Unlike in the dry season — when they typically cross into the swampy areas as early as 07h00 to escape the heat — the overcast skies have kept them comfortable and in no rush to cool off. This leisurely pace allowed us to enjoy a slow drive free from the urgency of catching them in their usual morning crossing.

At 13h00, we encountered a large family heading toward the palm forest after spending time wallowing in puddles. Although they had already enjoyed the muddy pools, they were still searching for fresh water to aid their digestion. Observing how these giants must feed continuously throughout the day to sustain their massive bodies is remarkable.

Just as the world was transitioning to twilight, a juvenile marsh owl took flight, gliding silently past me while I sat in the top row of the safari vehicle. I was stunned by the silence of its movement. This gives them a distinct advantage over other birds of prey and their unsuspecting targets. This stealth is due to the unique structure of their wings, which have natural edges and a velvety surface that reduces noise. 

But their prowess doesn't end there; they possess an extraordinary sense of hearing that enables them to detect even the faintest rustle or movement beneath leaves or underground. Their ability to pinpoint the exact location of their prey, even in complete darkness, showcases nature's brilliance at its finest. – Japheth Supeyo 

Driving through the vast and untamed wilderness of the Greater Maasai Mara is always an adventure filled with the promise of extraordinary wildlife encounters. As we set out to find a leopard, we noticed a small flock of birds hovering near a tree, seemingly reluctant to settle on its branches. Their erratic behaviour hinted that something unusual was unfolding. 

Suddenly, a leopard dropped hastily from the tree, its sleek and powerful form moving with haste yet hesitation. The cat seemed torn between retreating into the underbrush or standing its ground. After a few tense seconds, it climbed back up the tree.

This time, it brought down its kill, a black-backed jackal, an equally cunning predator. This was a bit shocking to witness because it is rare, as predators are not only hunters but also fierce competitors, and this moment underscored the brutal reality of their existence. The leopard carried its prize into the dense bush, vanishing to secure its meal. It was a moment that epitomised the thrill and unpredictability of the African wilderness, cementing itself as one of my most unforgettable sightings of the year.

In the Mara, battles are fought not only with roars or claws but also with necks. 'Necking' is a combat behaviour between male giraffes. This is not only a display of strength but a crucial behaviour for establishing social hierarchies and earning the right to mate. On a recent safari drive, we witnessed this silent duel, where two towering males faced off in a contest of dominance and courtship.

The duel began with both giraffes spreading their long legs wide apart, creating a stable base to brace against the impact of each strike. With deliberate movements, they swung their necks like pendulums, aiming to strike their opponent’s underbelly, chest, or legs. Each swing was calculated and precise, the ossicones — the horn-like protrusions atop their heads — serving as their chosen weapons. Despite the force behind each blow, the combat was oddly graceful, a silent dance of power and endurance. As the battle drew close, one giraffe finally relented, walking away to concede defeat. The victor stood tall, a silent champion of the savannah.

The ostrich holds a surprising record in the animal kingdom. Its eye is the largest of any living land animal, measuring an impressive five centimetres across. These enormous eyes are not just for show. They grant the ostrich exceptional vision, enabling it to spot predators from far away.

But here’s where things get even more interesting: the large bird's brain is comparatively tiny and underdeveloped, especially for a bird of its size. Why? Because those massive eyes take up so much space in the skull, there’s little room left for the brain. This odd anatomical trade-off makes the ostrich a creature of contrasts: it might not win any awards for brainpower, but it’s perfectly equipped to thrive in the wild savannahs where danger can appear instantly. Next time you spot an ostrich, look at those huge, expressive eyes — they’re the secret behind this bird’s survival. –Rio Marvin