This Week at Angama #352

Golden light has always been a secret ingredient for capturing wildlife and landscapes; early mornings are the best time. I had always dreamed of photographing the sunrise perfectly framing an elephant’s curved back, and thanks to Angama Guide Elvis, who skilfully positioned the shot for me, that dream came to life.

As we were driving to Amboseli National Park, the sun began to rise above the canopy of acacia trees; we spotted giraffes towering over everything, creating another stunning scene. Photographing animals is truly a game of perception, and creativity flows from the ability to envision and narrate stories from each unique sighting. 

Salash, one of Angama Amboseli’s exceptional Guides, is a skilled tracker thanks to his experience as a ranger with the Big Life Foundation. He spotted a new young male lion who had recently joined the Sanctuary. This young lion was out hunting and showed no signs of skittishness when we spotted him — a promising trait for our lion-loving visitors. Unlike Male 263 and Osunash, who bear the scars and wounds from their frequent clashes with each other and the females, this new lion still has a handsome, unblemished appearance. 

There is a distinct hierarchy among vultures, as various subspecies feed on different parts of a carcass. Vultures play an essential role as the ecosystem's ultimate cleanup crew. Kimana Sanctuary is home to a large population of vultures, including the rare palm-nut vulture, often seen perched on dead trees or high above the canopy of acacia trees.

Vultures specifically choose dead trees for roosting because their massive wingspans and distinctive take-off style require ample open space. Roosting in trees with dense branches and leaves would risk entangling their wings, making it difficult for them to take off and land gracefully.

This week, Salash witnessed a unique and bittersweet sighting with some guests — a Grant’s gazelle with deformed horns which curve toward her face. Fortunately, the horns don’t seem to be causing the gazelle any issues for now. However, as they observed, a group of jackals appeared, trotting close to her. Tragically, the jackals had just killed her young fawn and were feeding on it nearby. 

Though jackals are primarily scavengers, they do hunt to sustain themselves, especially when they have pups, as this family did. When raising young, jackals become more active hunters, working together to provide fresh meat for their growing litter. This complex scene illustrated the balance between life and survival in the wild, with each animal’s behaviour and adaptations playing an essential role in the ecosystem. 

Much to our delight, the cheetah mother and her five cubs seem to be thriving. They were seen twice this week — once from afar and the second time resting under the shade. Ever vigilant, the mother scanned her surroundings for prey and potential threats. 

We also enjoyed a unique sighting of a kudu, a rare and elusive presence here. Known for its striking spiral horns and distinctive white stripes along its sleek, greyish-brown coat, it is an elegant antelope that stands out among the other grazers. Kudus are generally shy and tend to avoid open spaces, relying on dense vegetation to stay concealed, which makes them a challenging species to spot. This particular individual was seen browsing quietly near a thicket, its large, expressive ears constantly flicking to detect any sounds of potential threats.

Thanks to overnight rains, Mt. Kilimanjaro put on a show, as her peak was seen with a fresh blanket of snow. November marks the start of the rainy season in the Sanctuary and across the larger Amboseli ecosystem, though we’ve only had a few isolated showers so far. We’re hoping for more consistent rain soon, as it’s vital for the region’s wildlife and vegetation. 

A promising sign is the arrival of large elephant herds moving into Kimana over the past few days. One of the highlights was a visit from Conor, the iconic Super Tusker who strolled near the Photographic Studio and the turning circle, seemingly searching for our lively welcoming committee. He continued his journey to the staff quarters without notifying us of his arrival, giving everyone a memorable encounter. —Japheth Supeyo

The wilderness is as unforgiving as it is breathtaking, and few moments capture this duality more poignantly than a hunt. This week, guests witnessed one of these rare, raw scenes as two cheetahs, powerful, agile hunters of the savannah, showed their skills. A reedbuck couple, alert yet unaware of the imminent danger, moved gracefully through the grass. Then, in an instant, the cheetahs sprang into action, their slender bodies cutting through the landscape with a speed and precision unmatched by any other land predator. The target was chosen, and the female reedbuck found herself in the crosshairs.

In a matter of seconds, the hunt reached its inevitable, brutal conclusion. As the cheetahs took down the female reedbuck, the male was left behind, powerless to intervene. His partner’s distress calls filled the air, reverberating in a way that struck a chord deep within all of them watching. This was a scene not just of predator and prey but of life interrupted, an unexpected, poignant reminder of the costs and risks these animals face in the unrelenting cycle of survival.

Even as we marvelled at the cheetahs' hunting prowess, it was impossible not to feel a pang of sympathy for the male reedbuck, standing alone, facing the harsh reality of a world where life hangs in delicate balance. As the cheetahs feasted on their hard-won meal, the male reedbuck lingered at a distance, a solitary figure in the grass, watching the scene unfold.

While it is thrilling to see a hunt, sometimes it’s as exciting to see the animals going about their day. Angama Guide Wilson drove to a place intriguingly called ‘50 Kilometers to Ngirare’ as it’s known for its occasional rare sightings. In fact, this rugged landscape has a reputation for concealing secrets of the wild. Wilson’s trained eye caught sight of a figure moving stealthily among the shadows — it was the Salt Lick male, a legendary leopard known for his elusive yet majestic presence in this vast expanse.

He moved with a seamless blend of power and grace, his sleek body weaving through the dry grass with unmatched stealth. Eventually, he climbed a nearby tree, settling on a sturdy branch that provided a commanding view of the surroundings. Perched high, the guests watched him transform from a hunter to an observer, surveying his territory with an air of regal solitude. There, enveloped in a tapestry of leaves and branches, his rosette-marked coat blended effortlessly with the dappled light, a living camouflage perfected over generations.

As the sun dipped further, a herd of elephants lumbered across the scene, their massive forms casting long shadows against the earth. To our amazement, neither the elephants nor the leopard seemed to regard one another as a threat, embodying a natural harmony that underscores the mystery and balance of the wild. It was a profound moment, a reminder of how the world of wildlife coexists with such subtle, unspoken respect.

Rising before dawn, I joined a group of fellow adventurers and climbed into the basket of a hot-air balloon, feeling a thrill of excitement as the burners roared to life. We lifted off the ground slowly, floating gently into the sky just as the first light of day began to touch the landscape below. The air was crisp, and as we ascended higher, the vastness of the Maasai Mara Triangle unfurled beneath us.

Our path took us over the meandering Mara River, its brown waters dotted with the shadowy outlines of crocodiles lying in wait just below the surface. A pod of hippos lounged along the banks, their massive bodies half-submerged, barely stirring as we passed overhead. The river was winding through the landscape from this height, drawing countless wildlife to its banks.

As we drifted over the riverine forest, the tall trees gave way to a group of elephants leisurely browsing the lush foliage. Watching them from above, I was struck by their quiet grace and their gentle interactions, each movement filled with purpose. The view from the balloon brought a new appreciation for the scale of these majestic animals and the vast landscape they inhabit. The flight was over all too soon, but the memory of floating over the Mara will stay with me, a reminder of the beauty that awaits those willing to rise just a little higher. -Rio Marvin