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Chasing Rainbows … or Auroras … or Crossings

Nothing is guaranteed when it comes to nature-based travel — the trick is to enjoy it all, and never give up hope, as Nicky writes
Above: A river crossing is the ultimate Great Migration viewing experience
Above: A river crossing is the ultimate Great Migration viewing experience

‘All good things come to those who wait’, so the saying goes. I grew up with that 16th-century proverb ringing in my ears. It was repeated so often that it made me all the more impatient and determined to do everything in life at top speed. This has served me well. Dare I say, suited me well. The more I could pack in, the more time I had to pack in. I am always somewhat surprised — and a little disappointed — to be described as impatient. But I do like to be known as someone who is persistent. Do the two necessarily have to go together? Let me get to the point of my story.

The mega herds are a spectacle to behold
The mega herds are a spectacle to behold

In a couple of weeks, the peace and quiet we enjoy in the Mara Triangle for nine months of the year will evaporate overnight with the invasion of a million herbivores and more as they pour in from the Serengeti for their annual lawn-mowing-extravaganza. The first to show their displeasure are the elephants, who all fall into a monumental collective sulk as the constant and persistent (that word again) lowing and mooing and grunting and groaning emit from wall-to-wall wildebeest drills into their brains.

With the annual Migration of herbivores come thrill-seeking travellers from all over the world to witness what must be the Greatest Animal Carnage on Earth as crocodiles the size of submarines ambush and devour hapless creatures as they cross the Mara River.

Action-packed scenes at every turn
Action-packed scenes at every turn
The type of scene that makes the author scream
The type of scene that makes the author scream

As lodge hosts, the pressure is almost unbearable as guests pretty much expect us to deliver this experience on tap. We send them off with double picnics — breakfast and lunch — for full days of waiting on the river banks, hoping beyond hope that the crocodiles will have their day. When they return back in the evening somewhat disappointed we buck them up saying ‘tomorrow is another day’ really wanting to say ‘all good things come to those who wait’. I am banned from Mara crossings apparently due to poor behaviour as I scream my lungs out for the baby zebra to swim like crazy as a behemoth sneaks up on them.

But I recently got my comeuppance… in Norway, of all places. Finally, I understood what that pain felt like when you have spent an untold amount of dollars and precious hard-earned time chasing a natural phenomenon night after night — and nada.

Nicky makes some furry friends in Norway
Nicky makes some furry friends in Norway
Going to the depths of Norway to see the lights
Going to the depths of Norway to see the lights

Off we set for the Arctic Circle to witness the dazzling Aurora Borealis. Our guide/host/astronomer predicted that March 2024 was going to be a year like no other of astonishingly mind-blowing displays of dancing Northern Lights. We would not be disappointed. Well, it was simply not meant to be. I finally understood how our guests felt when those fickle animals simply would not cross. And I felt guilty, responsible and sad all rolled into one because I had not been empathetic enough in their disappointment. This was payback time.

And finally... Aurora Borealis
And finally... Aurora Borealis

But did we give up? No! On we travelled practically all the way to the North Pole, or so it seemed, and on the seventh night, we were finally rewarded by 60 minutes of dancing lights. And I wouldn’t have traded those 60 minutes for the world.

'Sometimes you had to wait a little while for the good times to kick in. But when they did, you realized every moment and experience that came before was necessary…necessary to bring you there.'― Kathleen Long, Chasing Rainbows―  

Filed under: Stories From The Mara

Tagged with:

Angama Team , Angama Travel , Great Migration , Migration

About: Nicky Fitzgerald

After more than 30 years in hospitality, starting with a small hotel at the foot of Africa and followed by a further couple of Cape hotels, most notably The Bay, and sixty plus safari lodges across Africa and India, Nicky has served more meals, puffed more cushions, filled more beds, trained more staff and opened more properties than she cares to remember. Nicky is currently the CEO and is looking forward to handing over the business to take a third crack at retirement after which she will remain a delightfully opinionated member of the board

Browse all articles by Nicky Fitzgerald Meet the angama team

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Comments (7):

james papagno

20 July 2024

Great reading and enjoyed the content from over here in Miami and looking forward to meeting the Angama team at Sundance 2024 WAA event

    Charlotte Ross Stewart

    22 July 2024

    Dear James, thank you for your kind words — it's always such a joy to hear from our readers all over the world. WAA is a highlight every year and the Angama team is so looking forward to it. Until then, we wish you happy reading! Wishing you all the best, Charlotte

Stephen Brittle

15 July 2024

Looking forward to getting the weekly newsletter

Jonny Frankel

15 July 2024

I just LOVE this weekly newsletter! Jonny.

    Charlotte Ross Stewart

    22 July 2024

    Thank you Jonny, we love sending them to you! Charlotte

Komugisha Brenda

14 July 2024

You guys are incredible… I just love the way you put your words together and make everything even more beautiful.

    Charlotte Ross Stewart

    15 July 2024

    Thank you very much for your kind comment and for keeping up with our blog. We are so fortunate to write stories about such wonderful subjects.

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