Seven Smiles of Segera Service

There is only one Segera Retreat. Not because of the extraordinary art collection housed in a handsome lodge surrounded by tens of thousands of acres of Laikipia wilderness or the magnificent wildlife that abounds there. Segera is matchless because of the people who call it home. 

I know — you’re probably tired of hearing my mantra: people first, always. But bear with me while I prove this theory once again (and certainly not for the last time). This was my first visit back to Segera in seven years, and I can't quite understand why it took me so long. Everything has changed, and yet nothing has changed. Aren’t those the very best kinds of places to return to? Especially when they are as thoughtful and gorgeous as this one-of-a-kind lodge.

However, the beating heart of this remarkable place is the people. Fourteen years ago, a young Kikuyu named Isaac arrived at Segera, hoping to join the contractors building the lodge. From there, he worked his way through housekeeping, eventually leading that team, and today, he is a Butler, but Isaac’s great love is looking after Segera’s youngest guests. He relishes it so deeply that when he tells me how he keeps them busy and happy, his eyes sparkle: flower pressing, arts and crafts, croquet, smoothie-making, Swahili lessons and games of Scrabble. A parent’s dream. 

David has been guiding for only 25 years, 13 of which have been here at Segera. A family favourite story: when Mike and Kate stayed here years ago, they were awakened in the dead of night by the unmistakable sound of lions putting a rather dramatic end to the life of an unfortunate old buffalo. They messaged David, who came to fetch them at 02h00, I might add, to witness the spectacle up close. They stayed with the lions until sunrise, with Mount Kenya bidding them good morning. 

When you return to Segera (which you certainly will), be sure to book the Greenhouse. Surrounded by lovingly tended tropical plants and succulents, you feel as though the outside has been invited in. Queen of this botanical kingdom is Jessica, who, over the past eleven years, has conquered housekeeping, the kitchen, waitressing, and guest relations and is now a villa attendant. She has that magical gift of being exactly where you hope she will be. And the Greenhouse flourishes under her loving care. 

If it’s a good belly laugh you’re after, spend some time with Chef James. His turn of phrase is refreshingly unwoke (is that even a word?), and his sense of humour is infectious. Having fed Segera’s guests for five years in every possible corner of the property, I am amazed at how he remembers who to feed, what, where, and when. 'Food is like magic,' he says. 'Whenever you offer anything, it is appreciated.’

If there is only one Segera, there is only one Jerry. You’ll find him everywhere — guest areas, the Creative Studio, and beyond — somehow all at the same time. The Creative Studio is his domain, where not art but fashion takes centre stage. Though, in true Segera style, the fashion is art. Jerry’s knowledge of the Nairobi fashion and art scene is unfathomable, and he will rattle off names of designers — Sevaria, Peter & Black, and Studio Namnyak, for starters. And if you are looking for an articulate, detailed, and fascinating guide to Segera’s extensive Zeitz Collection of Contemporary African Art, look no further than Jerry.

My 2025 resolution was to buy a yoga mat. Done. That was the easy part. Having never subjected my body to yoga, I had no clue where to start. I needn’t have worried. Stoki, Segera’s calm and patient yoga maestro, came to my rescue. I was hopeless, but he was kind and gave me what I now consider one of the best compliments of my life: 'You have good breathing.' Enough said.

And finally (because I am well over my word quota), the trailblazer of this merry crew, Jens, ensured that every moment of my stay was nothing short of perfectly perfect. At Segera, you are wholeheartedly loved — and really, what could be better than that?